Как рождается идея путешествия? Иногда очень забавно. Например, из сериала. В сериале “Мир без конца” Изабелла Французская говорит своему сыну Эдуарду 3: ты должен вломить французам и короноваться в Реймсе. “Опа! – подумала я. – Все эти Карлы короновались в Реймсе, а я там почему-то до сих пор не была”. По отзывам, в Реймсе смотреть было совсем немного, потому я стала шариться по карте, где натыкала город Труа, не менее славный своей историей и богатый фахверком. А Метц кто-то посоветовал. Впрочем, он отлично укладывался в идею путешествия: Меровинги, средневековая Франция, Столетняя война, Жанна Д`Арк, тамплиеры и даже Аттила, который брал все три города. Все три соответственно были известны еще с римских времен, правда, от римлян почти ничего не осталось.
Нельзя прилететь в Германию, не посетить Женщину Моей Жизни и не съездить с ней куда-нибудь попыриться в ровный немецкий фахверк, коего в Рейн-Внестфалии на каждом шагу. Например, в гороке Бланкенберг. Тут, главное, не перепутать с Бланкенбургом, Бланкенхаймом, Бланкеншлоссом, Бланкенфелльсом и еще тыщей вариантов со словом “бланкен”.
Бланкенберг основан в 12 веке, здесь есть замок такого же почтенного возраста, который был закрыт по случаю зимы (но это не очень огорчительно, потому что от него остались только стены и башни. В городе сохранилось приличное количество ровного немецкого фахверка и укрепления. Выглядит городок так, будто там упала нейтронная бомба – преимущество зимней поездки.
Внезапно кривой фахверк 
Монастырь Эбербах выбрала для посещения ЖМЖ. И не только потому, что там винишко и красиво, просто Бернар Клервосский, который придумал цистерианство, выпил немало крови у Алиеноры Аквитанской, пока она была замужем за унылым Людовиком 7. Аббатство – одно из старейших цистерианских монастырей в Европе. Оно основано в 1136 году. Внутри было опять же очень пустынно и хорошо. Ни одного унылого Бернарда не встречено, зато прессов для вина, которым монастырь славится еще со средних веков – сколько угодно. В принципе благодаря винищу аббатство всю дорогу чувствовало себя неплохо, кроме периода 30-летей войны, когда набежали некультурные шведы и все выжрали. Многих туристов сюда привлекает также тот факт, что здесь снимали фильм “Имя Розы”.
Барельефики явно создавались под газом 
Льву хорошо 
Этим тоже хорошо 
Даже Мадонна веселая 
Ребенок дегустирует 
После Эбенбаха можно заскочить в Эльтвилле-ам-Райн, еще один городочек с кучей ровного и красивого фахверка, который выглядит, как новый. На самом деле городок впервые упоминается в документах 11 века. В городочке есть маленький замок 14 века (что это за немецкое село да без замка), немножко фортификаций и пара старых церквей.
Покинув ЖМЖ, на следующий день мы устремились к главной цели путешествия – в Реймс.
Реймс и Метц в средние века соревновались за звание столицы Австразии – так называлось государство, кторое располагалось на территории совеременной Франции. Тусили тут короли династии Меровингов, при том, что лен самого короля Франции в некоторые моменты был даже меньше Австразии по размеру. В 5 веке короля Хлодвига наконец дожала его жена (или политическая необходимость), и он крестился в Реймсе, в старой романской церкви. Крестил его сам архиепископ, который в историю вошел, как святой Реми/Ремигий. По легенде, елей для помазания принес голубь прямо с небес. С тех пор эта ампула так и хранилась в Реймсе. Когда в честь святого Реми построили абатство, туда все и сложили: ампулу, Реми и причиндалы для коронции.
Центральный фасад базилики Сен-Реми 
Собственно, Сен-Реми, внутри 
Захоронения 
Еще захоронения 
Реми крестит Хлодвига
Во время Столетней войны Жанна Д`Арк притащила в Реймс короноваться дофина Карла (будущего седьмого), здесь короновался и женился на Анне Ярославне Генрих 1, здесь же хранится Реймское Евангелие, которое она привезла с собой из Киева.
Сам собор стоит на огромной площади, что дает возможность осмотреть его со всех сторон. Как и остальной город, он пострадал во время Первой мировой. Но не так сильно и был тщательно восстановлен. Его отличает огромное количество крупных скульптур, которые можно долго рассматривать, странных горгулий и множество сохранившихся в хорошем состоянии витражей. Впрочем, как и в некоторых других соборах Франции, в нем есть и более-менее современные витражи. Например, у них три Марка Шагала.
Для туристов-идиотов в соседней лавке продают короны 
Удивительные каркуши 
Мальчик короновался 
Список коронованных в соборе королей 
Жанна Д`Арк 
Марьванна, Сен-Дени сегодня не забыл голову 
Веселая коровка 
Кроме собора, отлично сохранилось и аббатство Сен-Реми, куда захоронили Сен-Реми, когда поток страждущих к его мощам стал уже неприлично большим. К базилике 11 века примыкают гигантские помещения аббатства, нынче занятые музеем, надо сказать, очень неплохим: краткий экскурс в историю Реймса и ошметки его воистину славной истории.
Вход в музей 
Внутренний дворик 
Римская мозаика 
Саркофаг римского полководца 
Лотарь или Хлотарь 
Портрет Корнеля 
Скульптура с фасада Дома Музыкантов 
То, что осталось от дома музыкантов 
Аббатство сильно пострадало во время революции, даже ту самую ампулу революционеры нещадно разбили. Но сейчас об этом ничего не напоминает: внутри красиво, величественно и вполне аутентично, а ошметки ампулы можно посмотреть во дворце По. Ранее резиденция архиепископа Реймса, нынче тоже музей.
Небольшой музей занимает также особняк Vergeur 13 века с примыкающим к нему маленьким садиком: здесь собраны порталы и двери непоправимо разрушенных в Первую мировую зданий. Сам особняк также был почти разрушен, но восстановлен интересным образом: у него разные порталы разных архитектурных стилей. Рядом с ним располагался великолепный дом графов Шампанских, он же Дом Музыкантов, но он не сохранился, а его фасадные скульптуры находятся в Сен-Реми, где им отведен целый зал.
Мэрия 
Римский криптопортик 
Дворик особняка Vergeur 
Здесь была Жанна! 
Своим фахверковым фасадом особняк выходит на площадь, где сохранился римский криптопортик, сиречь торговые ряды (тм). Весь центр Реймса напоминает по архитектуре Париж, только более маленький, уютный и почти безлюдный. Очень приятный город, но больше дня-двух тут можно не оставаться, если не дегустировать шампанское, конечно.
Совсем другое дело Труа. Всего в полутора часах езды от Реймса, но весь исторический центр сохранился. Да, фахверк выгорел в начале 16 века, но был быстро отстроен, так что центр Труа представляет собой целые улицы корявых, покосившихся, пахнущих сараем домиков. Церкви традиционно еще более старые.
Труа был столицей графства, а после Столетней войны еще и столицей Франции, поэтому тут тоже много чего происходило. Первый герцог Шампани сотоварищи придумал тут орден тамплиеров, а на церковном соборе был утвержден его устав. Об этом напоминают стрелочки на тротуарах со стилизованными изображениями крестоносцев. Жанна проезжала здесь по дороге в Реймс, и они с дофином посетили мессу. Унылый Бернард Клервосский покоится в местном соборе имени Петра и Павла, по крайней мере, частично (в раке).
Церква Святого Урбана 
Церква св. Низье с черепичной крышей в бургундском стиле 
Ратуша
Собор на фоне своих крутых собратьев выглядит довольно просто, даже башня у него всего одна. Он горел, его валяли викинги, он страдал от урагана, в него била молния. Так что святой Павел остался без башни, башня есть только у Петра. В нем слушала мессу Жанна, Генрих 5 Английский женился тут на Екатерине Валуа и подписал позорный для французов договор о перемирии после их поражения в битве Азенкуре. Внутри есть небольшая сокровищица, где в раке хранятся ошметки Бернарда Клервосского.
Куда больше впечатляет церковь Святой Мадлен. С виду совершенно неприметная, в стиле ранней готики, самая старая в городе, внутри она поражает роскошными витражами и резной галереей 16 века, причем некоторые из витражей еще и подписаны. Одно из окон, например, посвящено Людовику Святому.
Тут прошли тамплиеры, я их найду!! 
В Труа мы жили в апартаментах, расположенных в одном из этих старых корявых домиков, все удобства есть, но все равно внутри очень аутентично.
Центр Труа за день можно обойти вдоль и поперек и отправляться дальше. Следющим пунктом нашей программы был Мец, но по дороге мы сдуру заехали в деревушку Эссуа, где жил и работал Ренуар. Там лил дождь и понять, что Ренуара прельстило в этом месте, было тяжело.
Кладбище, где похоронен Ренуар
Следующий пункт был куда интереснее: это крошечная деревушка Домреми, где родилась и выросла Жанна Д`Арк. Дом-музей, расположенный в ее настоящем доме, был закрыт, так что пришлось удовольствоваться окрестностями, садиком и церковью Сен-Реми 13 века, которая существовала во времена Жанны. На каждом углу в Домреми ее статуи, а у въезда в деревню – колоссальная базилика, посвященная Жанне и построенная в начале 20 века. Про Жанну в рамках исторического кружка можно почитать здесь.
Жанна спасает Францию 
Домик Жанны и церковь 
Церковь Сен-Реми 13 века 
Витражи посвящены Жанне 
Фигура над входом 
Домик изнутри 
Базилика 
Видение святых Жанне 
Отец Жанны 
Мать Жанны 
Жаннавезде! 
Перила в базилике украшены гербами городов 
Фрески, посвященные Жанне 
Последним пунктом программы был Мец, древняя столица Австразии и Лотарингии, а иногда даже всей Франции (при Шарлемаже), где в Средневековье постоянно что-то происходило. Про правителей Лотарингии Лотаря и Лотаря 2 можно почитать здесь
На фоне Труа Мец выглядит намного менее провинциальным, но и более скучным: фахверка здесь не сохранилось, застройка каменная, а крепостные стены снесли. Но все равно есть на что посмотреть: собор, церкви, живописные берега Мозеля, площади и остатки средневековых укреплений.
Площадь Сен-Луи 
Суд. В любом городе я его найду 
Факинг фейритейл 
Опера 
Дракон! 
К дракону – туда 
Церковь St.Eucaire, этот святой спасает от боли в горле 
На этой улице мы жили 
Собор в ночи 
Ночная площадь Сен-Луи, дома 14-17 в.в.
Собор Меца называют “Светильником Божьим” из-за огромной площади витражей. Он очень старый, основан в 5 веке, при этом старые постройки не сносили, а объединяли с новыми. Так что собор выглядит не очень гармонично, зато величественно, а внутри так просто сногсшибательно. Самые старые витражи датируются 13 веком, еще в соборе есть три витража Шагала. Под собором не особо интересная крипта, где висит дракон Каркуша, которому посвящена местная легенда.
Слоник с когтями 
Укуренная рыпка 
Средневековый гопник 
Нажрался и упал с коня 
Чудо-юдо 
Драка! 
Дракон Каркуша 
Крипта 
Шагал 
Еще Шагал 
Мец стоит на Мозеле, и берега здесь очень живописны, особенно в том месте, где на островке стоит Новый Храм (рядом Германия, и ее унылое влияние в Меце сильно ощущается, причем не только в архитектуре). Храм построен в начале 20 века, напоминает все немецкие романские церкви сразу и ничем особо не примечателен, кроме своего расположения.
Самая старая церковь Меца (возможно, и всей Франции) – Сен-Пьер-о-Ноннен (4 век), перестроенная из римских бань и палестры. Естественно, она была закрыта, пришлось удовольстоваться внешним осмотром. Та же фигня с Часовней Тамплиеров, построенной в их собственном укуренном стиле: это ротонда, повторяющая форму Храма Гроба Господня в Иерусалиме (октагон). Внутри есть фрески 14 века, но это Франция, детка, – закрыто без объяснений.
Все укрепления французы бездуховно снесли, кроме нескольких башен и ворот. Среди них – настоящая маленькая крепость: Ворота Немцев, совмещенные с мостом и построенные в 15 веке.
Из знаменитых туристов Меца – Юлий Цезарь, Аттила и Карл 5, Император Священной Римской империи, все брали город штурмом.
Из Меца близко съездить в Люксембург, и это еще одна причина там остановиться. Люксембург со второго раза такой же скучный, как с первого.
Дворец герцогов 
Зато у них есть потрясающий замок Вианден, один из самых больших замков Рейна, где сохранились или тщательно воссозданы интерьеры.
Замок начали строить в 11 веке, но затем, как обычно, достараивали и пристраивали. Несмотря на это, замок не производит впечатления хаотического нагромождения построек, как это часто бывает, например, с немецкими замками. Виандены закончились в 14 веке, затем замок принадлежал дому Нассау, которые впоследствие стали великими герцогами Люксембурга. В 19 веке один из них продал замок, а новый владелец его едва не снес. К счастью, герцоги испугались, выкупил замок обратно и сейчас он выглядит очень впечатляюще внутри и снаружи.
По дороге в аэропорт заскочили в маленький, но очень живописный Саарбург, история которого началась в 10 веке, когда Зигфрид Люксембургский построил здесь крепость. Ее развалки до сих пор гордо торчат на холме, можно даже попасть внутрь. Вторая достопримечательность Саарбурга – маленький рукотворный водопадик прямо посреди города. Около него кафе с самым правильным, как говорят, в мире штруделем.
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