Когда я в первый раз отправилась в Рим, предприятие выглядело довольно безумным: еще нужна была виза, пришлось ехать через фирму, но при этом у меня был оплачен только отель, трансфер и самолет, а значит, по городу я передвигалась по собственному плану.
План был уныло составлен заранее и, бегая очень быстро, а также стерев ноги в кровь (буквально), я его выполнила за два дня. И стала чесать в репе, что еще посмотреть.
Не ходите, дети, на Аппиеву дорогу гулять, – нудел путеводитель. Вы сломаете ноги об большие камни, и вас задавит машина. И вообще там сплошное кладбище. Это была печалька, потому что подобные места обладают странной притягательностью: все мы немного некрофилы. Триджи интернета, вайфая, фисбука и других благ цивилизации тогда еще не было, пришлось поверить мерзкой книжице.
Вот так из-за дурного путеводителя Аппиева дорога не увидела моих стертых ног с ободравшимся педикюром и подранных босоножек.
К счастью, это была не последняя поездка в Рим.
И во второй раз я таки решила закрыть гештальт, покурив инторнетик. Добравшись на каких-то автобусах, я наконец очутилась в месте, где меня непременно должны были задавить. Путеводитель не знал, что можно идти не по дороге, а по парку. И что гигантские камни начинаются не сразу, а на каком-то там километре, да и идти по ним совсем не сложно.
А вот атмосфера там – какая надо атмосфера: вдоль дороги мертвые с косами и вот это вот все. Мавзолеи, надгробия, церкви, входы в катакомбы, набитые христианскими мучениками и святыми под завязку. Живых людей при этом очень мало.
Одна из самых известных гробниц, до которой все добираются – это мавзолей Цецилии Метеллы. Про тетку неизвестно ровным счетом ничего: дочь консула Квинта Цецилия Метелла Кретика, жена сына Красса и все. Причем этих Цецилий Метелл гугл знает целую толпу (милый римский обычай), но про эту неизвестно ничего. Она прославилась после смерти своей монументальной гробницей, похожей на донжон средневекового замка. Собственно, в средние века ее и использовали в таком качестве.
Сейчас там маленький музейчик. В музейчике было совершенно пусто, а вход в саму гробницу завешан красным пологом. Ну, здравствуй, Цецилия Метелла, – сказала я мысленно.
Фррр!!! – ответила Цецилия, внезапно от души хлопнув меня по морде пологом. Припадочно замахав руками, я ломанулась обратно к кассе, там точно был кто-то живой. “Сквозняк!”, – подумала я, пыхтя, как кит. “Истеричка”, – подумала Цецилия, хлопая тряпкой.
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