В Румынию зимой

Сибиу

Много лет назад у интернет-знакомой я подсмотрела традицию: отмечать свой день рождения в разных классных местах. Но с моим днем рождения большая проблема – он зимой. Поэтому каждый раз приходится выдумывать, а иногда даже пускаться в авантюры, вроде как поехать в Каппадокию. Но в этом году авантюра была задумана еще круче: на машине в Румынию. И чтоб совсем уже было интересно – с младенцем. Потому что нельзя поехать в страну Дракулы без его главного поклонника.

Сигишоара

Про Румынию очень любят рассказывать страшилки. Особенно те, кто был там лет 20-30 назад. На самом же деле это оказалась совершенно европейская страна.

Главная проблема с достопримечательностями Румынии – о них очень мало информации. Если верить интернету, это пару замков и пару городков. Хотя на деле там смотреть-не пересмотреть, а замок, крепость, цитадель или укреплённый монастырь есть почти в каждом селе. Но об этом мы узнали уже на месте. Маршрут же был построен в основном вокруг замков: замок Корвинов в Хунедоаре, замок Бран и замок Пелеш. Поэтому первым пунктом была Хунедоара, но сначала до нее нужно было добраться.

Замок Корвинов в Хунедоаре

Чтобы без проблем перейти границу, мы решили заночевать в Черновцах и выехать оттуда ночью. Гостиница была прекрасна, даже жаль, что мы сразу оттуда уехали. И влипли в очередь на 2,5 часа. К счастью, младенец все это время спал.

По дороге в Хунедоару у нас был один объект, который мы решили посмотреть сразу, потому что 70 км по карте по румынским дорогам превращаются в три часа. И не потому что они плохие, просто узкие, идут через села и горы. Кстати, некоторые из них платные, но виньетку можно купить по интернету, и ее даже не нужно распечатывать.

Большие затейники румыны придумали превратить бывшую соляную шахту в парк аттракционов. Передать масштаб, пожалуй, не способна ни одна фотография: сначала нужно спуститься по лестнице, а потом еще вглубь на высоту 13 этажей, на лифте или пешком. Внутри всякие развлекухи для детей, но самое крутое – нижняя шахта, заполненная водой. Это настоящее царство Харона, и даже лодки есть. К счастью, у нас не было местных денег, чтобы покататься, и младенец, большой любитель всяких ужасов, очень расстроился.

Хунедоара – город со славным прошлым, родовое гнездо аристократического семейства Хуньяди, практически ничем не интересна и очень уныла. Ее можно использовать разве что в качестве перевалочного пункта. Но при этом тут есть хорошие гостиницы и рестораны с отличной местной кухней.

Местная кухня – это как если бы немецкая, венгерская и турецкая кухня слились в экстазе. То есть это абсолютно прекрасно. Главное, не заказывать больше двух блюд, чтоб не треснуть.

В замок Хуньяди или замок Корвинов мы пошли (ногами) уже утром. Янош Хуньяди был одним из выдающихся политических деятелей своей эпохи, а его сын Матиаш (или Матвей) даже стал венгерским королем (да, в средние века тут был сущий винегрет из территорий, да еще турки пробегали).

Замок начали строить в 15 веке, а потом, как водится, достраивали. Но в отличие от многих замков, которые строились подобным образом, этот замок не производит впечатления лабиринта или хаоса. Это мрачная, но очень красивая готическая твердыня на холме, с множеством башен, в которые можно забраться.

Интерьеры почти не сохранились, но ху керз, тут и без того очень интересно. Единственное место, куда нам не удалось просочиться – часовня. Свои легенды тут, конечно, тоже имеются. Якобы в темнице 7 лет держали Дракулу (но это обычное дело, он везде либо жил, либо проезжал, либо сидел, что твой Красавчик Принц Чарли в Шотландии). Вторая связана с мрачным колодцем, который строили турецкие пленники в обмен на освобождение. Всех их все равно убили. Судя по надписи на турецком, это все же не легенда.

Из Хунедоару удобно совершить вылазку в Сибиу (хотя лучше бы там жить и съездить оттуда в Хунедоару).

Совершенно прекрасный средневековый городок, состоящий из верхнего и нижнего городов. Построенный трансильванскими саксами, он сохраняет свое очарование, несмотря на некоторую пошарпанность. Даже благодаря ей. То, что немцы бы отпидарасили и покрасили, румыны оставляют слегка ободранным, потому в их городках царит очень аутентичная атмосфера.

Про Сибиу мы ничего не прочитали, потому просто бестолково бродили. И очень удачно забрели в собор Святой Марии. Сам собор довольно заурядный, но вот подъем на башню надо совершить обязательно. Притом не столько ради видов, сколько ради самого подъема. Никакой винтовой лестницы или скучных пролетов. Дурдом, хаос, пыль и старые колокола. Кажется, что ты попал в дурной сон с перепутанными лестницами.

С колокольни я заприметила церкву, которую уже видела на открытках. Как позже оказалось, это довольно свеженький православный собор, но построенный в лучших византийских традициях, потому издалека он напоминает Софию и Голубую мечеть одновременно.

Конечно, в качестве опорного пункта, откуда можно совершать вылазки, Сибиу несравнимо приятнее Хунедоары, потому что тут можно просто гулять. Но кто ж знал.

На следующий день нам нужно было переехать в Брашов, где нас ждала не такая пафосная, но очень уютная гостиница.

Но по дороге мы решили все-таки заехать в Сигишоару, ведь это родной город Дракулы, а его главному поклоннику были нужны клыки.

Про Сигишоару я опять же ничего не прочитала, но мы интуитивно правильно пришли в Верхний город, ориентируясь на видимую издалека Часовую Башню. Его также строили трансильванские саксы, но в отличие от няшного Сибиу Сигишоара более мрачная и готичная.

Часовая башня и дом, где родился Дракула

Часовая башня, похоже, не ремонтировалась испокон веков, потому она пахнет сараем (как я люблю), вся скрипит и ободралась. Часы на ней работают через пень-колоду, а внутри музей. Прямо рядом с ней какие-то уже безымянные могилы, где поклонник Дракулы наконец напялил зубы и стал пугать прохожих. К тому же совсем рядом и сам дом, где родился Дракула. Сейчас внутри отличный ресторан, стилизованный под средневековье, и специальная комната для поклонников. Внутри лежит живой мужик в гробу и пугает истеричек вроде меня.

В верхнем городе сохранились оборонительные башни, причем в некоторых даже кто-то живет. А на вершине холма находится укрепленная церковь. Это такая румынская «изюминка». В такой церкви можно было закрыться и подождать, пока пробегут очередные враги. Возле церкви есть старинное кладбище, где поклонник Дракулы снова оторвался.

Уерепленная церковь
Нижний город и капитолийская волчица

Вечером мы уже были в Брашове, где ничего не успели, кроме ужина. А утром отправились в Бран, замок якобы Дракулы, в котором он, в лучшем случае, один раз останавливался.

На самом деле замок построен на свои средствами местными жителями в конце 14 века, за что они были освобождены от уплаты налогов. С оборонительной точки зрения это настоящий шедевр, потому что враг быстрее сам сдохнет, чем найдет, как пробраться наверх: внутри все чрезвычайно запутано. Интерьеры в замке сохранены, что придает ему жилой и уютный вид, по крайней мере, снаружи.

Из Брана мы поехали в третий самый известный румынский замок, Пелеш. И тут нас ждала засада: день был выходной, и мы встряли в огромную румынскую пробку.

Кроме того, от парковки еще километра полтора нужно идти пешком, что с младенцем вообще затруднительно. Но сам замок, несмотря на свою «новизну» того стоит.

Построил его в конце 19 века король  Кароль I в соответствии со своими романтическими представлениями о замках родной Германии. Притом Германии он здорово польстил.

Но никакая няшность замка снаружи не может подготовить к великолепию внутри. И это не какая-нибудь похабщина в виде хрустальной лестницы.

Полностью сохранившиеся интерьеры, с обилием темного дерева, витражами, люстрами, зеркалами, коллекциями оружия, музыкальных инструментов и библиотекой. Попасть внутрь можно только с экскурсией, что неудобно. К тому же билеты есть разных видов – на первый этаж онли и на оба. Мы тут лоханулись, в итоге потеряли время и уже не не успели в Пелишор, второй замок.

В самом Брашове стоит посмотреть цитадель (только снаружи), погулять по центру, зайти в Черную Церкву (самую большую на Балканах) и подняться на подъемнике. Но была зима и выходной, так что подъемник и церква нас подломали.

Обратно из Румынии мы выбирались тем же макаром, но через Сучаву: переночевали, выехали ночью и за 15 минут прошли границу.

Вокруг Сучавы множество расписных монастырей, тоже местная изюминка, но ее пришлось оставить на следующий раз.

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