В Бодруме, курорте на Эгейском море, я была 7 раз (и не собираюсь останавливаться), но так ни разу ничего про него и не написала.
Бодрум стал первым местом в Турции, которое я увидела. Тщательно выбранным за свою историю, и выбор этот оказался очень удачным. Бодрум не похож на другие турецкие курорты, восток здесь ощущается менее всего, а похож он на Грецию, только облагороженную и с турецким сервисом. Белые небольшие домики, которыми усеяны окрестные холмы, и замок Святого Петра в бухте придают ему неповторимое очарование и стиль. Без преувеличения – это самый изысканный турецкий курорт.
История
В отличие от многих других турецких городов, Бодрум действительно город с древней историей, оставившей здесь свои следы повсеместно. Город основали вездесущие греки, а местное население, карийцы, нахваталось эллинской культурки и слилось с греками в объятиях. Считается, что отсюда родом был Геродот, отец истории (врал, как сивый мерин). Одно время Галикарнасом правила Артемисия 1, которая вступила в союз с персами и приняла участие в походе Ксеркса на Грецию.
Царь Мавсол, который правил вместе со своей сестрой-женой, построил здесь гробницу столь пышную, что все последующие гробницы подобного рода стали носить название Мавзолеев. Александр Македонский захватил город, войдя в него, по преданию, через ворота Миндоса. Он разрушил практически все сооружения в городе, кроме культовых и Мавзолея. А править поставил принцессу Аду. Рыцари иоанниты, они же госпитальеры, бежали с Родоса сюда и построили в бухте замок Святого Петра из ошметков давно рухнувшего от землетрясения Мавзолея.
Считается, что османы переименовали город в Бодрум (подвал), но на самом деле они лишь взяли средневековое название захолустного села, в которое превратился некогда славный город – Петрониум (по имени замка). И немного его исказили.
Что посмотреть в Бодруме
- Замок Святого Петра. Сейчас в нем находится самый большой музей подводной археологии в Европе. Экспонаты – это то, что подняли со дна Эгейского моря около берегов Бодрума
- Руины ворот Миндоса. Просто развалки, вход бесплатный
- Старинные мельницы. Находятся на холме над Гюмбетом, пригородом Бодрума. Лучшие виды – на закате
- Руины Мавзолея. Почти ничего не осталось, все сперли госпитальеры и британцы
- Старый город – улочки, беленькие домики и вот это вот все.
- Амфитеатр. Торчит над дорогой, ведущей из Бодрума в Тургутрейс
Мельницы 
Замок 
Гербы иоаннитов 
Вид на бухту 
Ошметки Мавзолея 
Макет Мавзолея 
Вид из старого города на замок 
Ворота Миндоса 
В замке 
Выставка древних стекляшек в замке 
Замок
Куда съездить из Бодрума
- Озеро Бафа. Соленое озеро, некогда бывшее частью моря. На его берегу – развалины монастырей и Гераклеи на Латмосе
- Иассос – неплохо сохранившиеся и очень живописные руины античного города
- Милет – еще более древний город, чем Галикарнас, великолепно сохранился гигантский амфитеатр
- Приена – грандиозные, очень живописные и очень плохо раскопанные руины античного города
- Дидим – античные развалины грандиозного храма Аполлона
- Стратоникея – развалки в развалках: на руинах античного города построили деревню и бросили ее. Писала про нее здесь
- Эуромос – небольшие развалки схорошо сохранившимся храмом Зевса
- Гюмюшкесен в Миласе – упрощенная и уменьшенная копия Мавзолея, гробница римского периода
- Руины Лабранды (еще не была!)
- Руины Лагины. Если продраться сквозь кусты с козами, обнаруживаешь раскопанные и упорядоченные археологами ошметки античного города
- Руины Керамоса (еще не была!)
- На пароме можно сплавать на греческий Кос. Он довольно уныл, но есть крепость и Асклепион
- Можно убить кучу времени и ломануться в Эфес (самые грандиозные античные руины эвер), Афродисиас (шикарные античные развалки) или на Дальян (крутейший природный заповедник с черепашками и ликийскими гробницами).
Римская гробница в Иассосе 
Ворота Иассоса 
Озеро Бафа 
Дидим 
Аполлон 
Крепость на Косе 
Римская вилла на Косе 
Бухта Коса 
Лагина 
Эйромос 
Каунос – развалки на Дальяне
Когда ехать
Чтоб не только лазить по развалкам, но и купнуться, надо ехать не раньше второй половины июня, Эгейское море, зараза, холодное. Сентябрь – тоже отличное время. В Бодруме также гарантированно не сдохнешь от жары и в июле-августе, просто будет дороже.
Где жить
В понятие “Бодрум” входит весь Бодрумский полуостров. На нем куча курортных поселков, и большая часть из них – унылая. Самый милый – Ялыкавак. Так есть чумовая лакшери марина (Канны нервно курят), прекрасная набережная и симпатичный старый город. Если же хочется быть ближе к движу – лучше выбрать Гюмбет, пригород, откуда до Бодрума можно дойти ногами или за пять минут доехать. Но отель выбирать в конце набережной, подальше от бар-стрит.
Вид на Гюмбет 
Набережная Гюмбета 
Лашери марина, Ялыкавак 
Она ж 
Ну ащщщеее
Ночная жизнь
Ночной жизнью Бодрум уделывает все турецкие курорты. Дискотеки тут на любой вкус: и роскошные, и попроще. Много клубов с бесплатным входом, хоть всю ночь ходи туда-сюда. Причем дискотеки Гюмбета на самом деле даже круче дискотек Бодрума. Хотя самые пафосные, Галикарнас и Катамаран, находятся там. Но они давно уже больше туристический атраккцион, чем место с клевой музыкой.
Шопинг
В Бодруме достаточно ТЦ, причем в поселках они тоже есть. Но самый большой и классный – Оазис, над дорогой из Бодрума в Тургутрейс. Из Гюмбета туда можно сходить ногами. В самом Бодруме – небольшой, но очень стильный “Бодрум Марина” на набережной. И тучи лавочек старого города, где валом цацок, шмоток, шарфиков, сувениров и всего того, что мы любим грести в Турции лопатой. За лакшерями надо ехать в Ялыкавак на марину, там диоры с шанелями и вот это вот все.
Марина, ТЦ
Как передвигаться
Между поселками – на маршрутке, их тьмы. По экскурсиям и развалкам – с турагентством (если вы не водите) или брать машину напрокат. Это в Бодруме легко, а водить здесь – очень приятно, поскольку дороги абсолютно роскошны, а организация движения не в пример лучше, чем в постсовке.
медицинская справка
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