Так получилось, что до прошлого года я не бывала в Польше. Очевидно, сработал синдром “соседней страны” и предубеждение типа “курица не птица”. Но уже в первый визит мне так понравилось все – архитектура, люди, язык, культура, еда – что в этом же году мы поехали в Польшу еще раз. Но пока о первой поездке.
Польша похожа на Украину, только чуть лучше – это очень сильное преувеличение. Польша похожа на Европу, и это сразу бросается в глаза. Из похожего здесь только язык, потому на украинский перескакиваешь автоматически. 80% польской речи понятно. Если напрячься, 85 %. Но остальное другое: города и деревни, чистота и порядок, дороги и инфраструктура, ухоженность исторических памяток и трепетное отношение к собственной истории.
История Польши намного короче, чем у других европейских государств. До 10 века здесь были болота и леса, жили племенами, и никакие римляне со своей культурой сюда не докатились. Только в 10 веке первый король из династии Пястов с неблагозвучным именем Мешко начал создавать государство.
Еще одно распространеное заблуждение: в Варшаве нечего смотреть и все там – новодел. Это художественное преувеличение.
В 1944 году произошло событие, которым поляки очень гордятся: Варшавское восстание. В отместку восставшим полякам немцы действительно целенаправленно разрушили город, было уничтожено что-то около 80% зданий. Но поляки не стали застраивать центр новоделом или втыкать в дырки стекло и бетон. Вместо этого они несколько десятилетий кропотливо, используя чертежи, фото и даже картины воссоздавали Старый Город. И сейчас догадаться о том, что все отстроено, можно только, если владеешь этой информацией. Центр внесен в список Всемирного Наследия Юнеско, как пример тщательной исторической реконструкции.
Зимой около русалки каток 
Мария Кюри 
Маленький повстанец 
Королевский дворец
Центр практически любого старого польского города – прямоугольная площадь, плотно окруженная разноцветными домиками (да, за домиками не обязательно ехать в Бельгию или Голландию). В Варшаве эта площадь довольно заурядна, и можно запросто проскочить мимо русалки с шаблей – символа Варшавы, возвышающегося посередине. Зато очень красива и пафосна площадь перед королевским дворцом.
Дворец построен Сигизмундом Вазой, которого позвали по царство по дурости (это было любимое развлечение польской шляхты) и который всю жизнь пытался усидеть на двух престолах сразу. За это ему перед дворцом поставили памятник. Во время “потопа”, как называют в Польше нашествие шведов, замок сильно пострадал, но затем был отстроен. Фашисты же действовали более планомерно и замок просто взорвали, так что от него ничего не осталось. Все, что мы сейчас видим – восстановленное. Каждый день в 11:15 из часовой башни подаётся сигнал: часы башни остановились во время бомбардировки Варшавы. Во дворце сейчас музей, но интерьеры тоже восстановлены.
Елка на площади перед дворцом 
Возможно, самый красивый вид Варшавы 
Второй королевский дворец куда более наряден и пафосен – это Вилянув, который находится в предместье. Его построил Ян Собеский, самый образованый и приличный из всех этих Казимиров, для своей жены Марысеньки и многочисленного потомства. Дворец в стиле барокко напичкан предметами искусства (сомнительного качества) и так пышно изукрашен, что аж зубы сводит. Парк красив, но скульптуры в нем в основном довольно страшны. Интерьеры сохранились, потому что во время войны в здании был фашистский штаб.
После Варшавы выбор был между Гданьском и Краковом, но по фото мне больше понравился Гданьск. Тем более, что по дороге был один из крутейших замков эвер – Мальборк/Мариенбург. Чтобы обойти его и все посмотреть, нам понадобилось около трех часов, и это мы еще быстро шевелили поршнями. Размеры его впечатляют: в лучшие годы на территории замка жило около 3 000 человек.
Надо сказать, что архитектурная фишка Польши – это кирпичная готика. Гигантские замки и колоссальные церви сложены из красного кирпича и производят грандиозное впечатление. На Мариенбург рыцари тевтонского ордена, а это были они, извели 4 480 000 единиц кирпича. Замок служил резиденцией магистра тевтонского ордена более ста лет. Хотя он достраивался и перестаивался, все сооружение выглядит удивительно гармоничным.
В этой местности Тевтонский орден устроил себе небольшое королевство, которое так сильно муляло одновременно и Польше, и Литве, что те, объединившись под властью Ягайла (того самого язычника старого пердуна, который женился на 12-летней Ядвиге) ввалили тевтонцам по самое немогу. Во время Грюнвальдской битвы, в ходе которой тевтонцы получили финальных люлей, замок подвергся длительной осаде, но взять его не смогли. Потом магистр его пошло продал польскому королю, который устроил в нем свою резиденцию.
К 19 веку замок превратился в романтические руины, на которые тогда очень кстати сделалась мода. Немцы, которые как-то особенно упоролись на этой моде (аж достроили Кельнский собор и отстроили колупнадцать замков на Рейне) купили руины и привели их в божеский вид. В замке, кстати, отличный аудиогид, что бывает не так уж часто.
Гданьск
Гданьск смело может претендовать на звание польского факинг фейри тейла (главный факинг фейри тейл Европы для примера – это Брюгге). Каналы, пряничные домики, огромные церкви, больше похожие на замки. Атмосферы сказочности добавлял праздник Трех Королей (то есть волхвов), который как раз празднуют в этот день в Европе. В Польше это делают с большим размахом: все наряжаются, надевают короны и ходят праздичными шествиями, не забывая подожрать что-то вкусное на улицах.
Остров складов, где мы жили 
Набержная, вдали виднееся Журав 
Бывшие склады 
Одни из городских ворот, Зеленые 
Три короля во плоти 
Хотя считается, что “поселение на территории Гданьска существовало еще в 5 веке”, он – такое же новье, как остальные польские города и едва может насчитать 1000 лет. Практически всю свою историю из-за стратегического положения Гданьск был камнем предкновения между Германией и Польшей. Причем все началось еще с Тевтонского ордена. Потому всю дорогу Гданьск ходил туда-сюда и приобрел второе название – Данциг.
В Гданьске не стоит бегать от достопримечательности к достопримечательности. Тут весь центр – одна сплошная достопримечательность, хоть и тоже частично восстановленная. Целые улицы пряничных домиков, красивые площади и набережные, остатки старинных укреплений, кирпичные церкви и соборы.
Гданьск не похож на остальные польские города. Здесь нет большой прямоугольной площади Рынок, застроенной по периметру пряничными домиками. Вместо этого – Длинный Рынок, больше смахивающий на улицу, чем на площадь. Здесь находится дивная по красоте ратуша Главного Мяста (Главного города), фонтан Нептуна, в итальянском стиле, а завершается и начинается она воротами, которые раньше располагались в крепостной стене, а теперь аккурато вписаны в окружающие строения. Не менее красива и соседняя улица с прекрасным названием Пивная. На нее выходит громадная, как замок, кирпичная церковь Девы Марии (самый большой кирпичный храм в Европе), а заканчивается она зданием Арсенала, розовеньким и в стиле барокко. Именно здесь был праздничный концерт и шествие в честь празника Трех Королей. Обе улицы застроены прекрасными каменными домиками.
Розавинький арсенал 
Нептн и ратуша 
Большой млын 
Малый млын 
Ратуша 
Церковь св. Николая 
Благодаря своему положению, Гданьск очень живописен, здесь много водных поверхностей и островов, фактически весь центр и стоит на островах. Жили мы на Острове Складов, где находится около 300 старинных амбаров, переделанных для современных нужд, в том числе и отелей.
Есть еще Старый Город (Старе Място) с Ратушей, костелом святого Иосифа, крутой церковью Святой Екатерины и островом со старинными мельницами. Обязательно стоит прогуляться вдоль набережной Старой Мотлавы, де, кроме домиков и ворот, есть ворота под названием Журав или ворота-кран. Это одновременно городские ворота, оборонительная башня и портовый кран. До начала 20 века – самый большой кран в Европе.
Совсем рядом – Балтийское море. Очень странное ощущение – стоять в пуховике на песчаном пляже и смотреть на неприветливую серо-свинцовую поверхность воды.
На обратном пути в Варшаву заехали в Торунь. Еще один прелестный польский городок, изестный пряниками и Коперником, который здесь родился. Центр весь чохом включен во всемирное наследие ЮНЕСКО, но на фоне Гданьска город теряется, лучше смотреть наоборот.
Город основан в 12 веке (новье!), а название получил от того же Тевтонского орлена – по имени замка в Палестине, бесславно просранного.
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