Есть города, которые ни в голове, ни в заднице. Уехал и забыл. Есть города, которые, вроде, нравятся, но никакого приятного послевкусия не остается спустя недолгое время. А есть города, которых мало. В момент отъезда понимаешь, что хочется остаться, что не увидел всего, не сфоткал каждый кривой дом и не нагулялся. Руан – как раз из таких.
Чего в Руане не стоит делать: наметить список достопримечательностей и припадочно метаться. Наверняка половина из заготовленного будет закрыта без объяснения причин. Что в Руане делать стоит: неспешно гулять, втыкая на корявый фахверк и закусывая булками.
Селиться в Руане лучше ближе к этому самому фахверку, чтобы проникнуться. Благо, в пятисотлетних домах есть отели и апартаменты. Мы останавливались здесь и погружались в эпоху, не отходя от кассы.
Чем более всего известен Руан? Викингами и тем, что здесь сожгли Жанну Д`Арк. Один впечатлительный младенец, прослушав историю Жанны, так разозлился, что собрался убивать всех англичан и был с трудом успокоен.
Чтобы как-то увековечить место сожжения, руанцы в 1979 годы создали нечто невообразимо укуренное. Издали оно похоже на палатку-переросток или цирк шапито (по задумке архитектора это
языки пламени и перевернутая ладья). Но на самом деле это церковь Жанны Д`Арк. Украсили ее витражами из церкви святого Винсента, от которой мало что осталось после войны.
Сохранилась также башня, в которой Жанна то ли сидела, то ли нет. Но в любом случае, башня была закрыта.
Город в этом регионе появился еще при римлянах, потом здесь осели норманны (см. сериал Викинги), но исторический центр застроен домами, которым по 400-500 лет. И это не маленькие, няшные немецкие фахверки. Это дома по 5-6 этажей. Они настолько невозможно кривые, что будто кричат: та задрали уже ремонтировать, дайте мне спокойно завалиться! Местами, на особо узких улочках они наклонились друг к друг так сильно, что почти соприкасаются. Все это так прекрасно, что хочется сфотографировать каждую древнюю кривульку.
Руанский собор открыт с большой долей вероятности. Внутри есть Ролло (он здесь крестился), его сын и Ричард Львиное Сердце (частями). В остальном внутренности похожи на любой готический собор (см. концептЪ “видел один, видел все”). Снаружи же он очень красив и ажурен. Отличить его от других соборов можно: у него башни разные. Я, конечно, утрирую – Ролло крестился в старом соборе, но на этом самом месте в 911 году. Новый собор, как водится, строился долго и кусками – самая старая часть построена в 12 веке. Во время войны собору не повезло, он немного горел и лишился части витражей.
Проект церкви аббатства Сент-Уэн был слизан с Кельнского собора. Но, в отличие от немецкого собрата, он не такой высокий, потому можно хоть что-то рассмотреть без риска вывихнуть шею. И сделан он из другого материала, потому он просто серый, а не выглядит так, будто у его стен жарили мега-шашлыки. Как водится, внутри церква такая же скучная, как все остальные готические соборы. Окружает ее симпатичный садик с цветочками.
Поцелуи замкА с большой вероятностью ожидают желающих посетить церковь Сен-Мало (это не только город, но и местный святой). Церквоь эта невелика и очень изящна. Ее фасад хочется долго рассматривать, но спина упирается в кривой фахверк, в окружении которого она стоит на чрезвычайно живописной площади. При церкви есть оссуарий, и один готический мальчик очень просил разрешения взять оттуда череп (хотя маленький). К счастью, внутри происходили ремонтные работы, и все черепа куда-то сволокли.
Руанские судейские устроились очень готично – буквально. Поскольку сидят они в гигантском здании, построенном в XV веке, пышно украшенном горнульями и прочими страшилками, от которых истцы и ответчики ходят под себя на подходе.
Гуляя по старым улочкам, задирайте голову, чтоб не провтыкать прекрасные старинные городские часы. Проходя под часами, надо тоже задрать голову!
Чем еще можно заняться в Руане? Например, смотаться в Этрета. Сделать селфи на фоне облепленного туристами алебастрового берега и втыкнуть на пейзажи, от которых перло Мане (не путать с Моне).
«Если бы мне нужно было показать другу море, который никогда его не видел, я бы привез его в Этрета» (с) Альфонс Карр.
Ох, я б тут завис (с)
Вот и я там завис. И еще собираюсь
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