Жанна Д`Арк, викинги и фахверк

Есть города, которые ни в голове, ни в заднице. Уехал и забыл. Есть города, которые, вроде, нравятся, но никакого приятного послевкусия не остается спустя недолгое время. А есть города, которых мало. В момент отъезда понимаешь, что хочется остаться, что не увидел всего, не сфоткал каждый кривой дом и не нагулялся. Руан – как раз из таких.

Чего в Руане не стоит делать: наметить список достопримечательностей и припадочно метаться. Наверняка половина из заготовленного будет закрыта без объяснения причин. Что в Руане делать стоит: неспешно гулять, втыкая на корявый фахверк и закусывая булками.

Селиться в Руане лучше ближе к этому самому фахверку, чтобы проникнуться. Благо, в пятисотлетних домах есть отели и апартаменты. Мы останавливались здесь и погружались в эпоху, не отходя от кассы.

Чем более всего известен Руан? Викингами и тем, что здесь сожгли Жанну Д`Арк. Один впечатлительный младенец, прослушав историю Жанны, так разозлился, что собрался убивать всех англичан и был с трудом успокоен.

Чтобы как-то увековечить место сожжения, руанцы в 1979 годы создали нечто невообразимо укуренное. Издали оно похоже на палатку-переросток или цирк шапито (по задумке архитектора это
языки пламени и перевернутая ладья). Но на самом деле это церковь Жанны Д`Арк. Украсили ее витражами из церкви святого Винсента, от которой мало что осталось после войны.

Сохранилась также башня, в которой Жанна то ли сидела, то ли нет. Но в любом случае, башня была закрыта.

Город в этом регионе появился еще при римлянах, потом здесь осели норманны (см. сериал Викинги), но исторический центр застроен домами, которым по 400-500 лет. И это не маленькие, няшные немецкие фахверки. Это дома по 5-6 этажей. Они настолько невозможно кривые, что будто кричат: та задрали уже ремонтировать, дайте мне спокойно завалиться! Местами, на особо узких улочках они наклонились друг к друг так сильно, что почти соприкасаются. Все это так прекрасно, что хочется сфотографировать каждую древнюю кривульку.

Руанский собор открыт с большой долей вероятности. Внутри есть Ролло (он здесь крестился), его сын и Ричард Львиное Сердце (частями). В остальном внутренности похожи на любой готический собор (см. концептЪ “видел один, видел все”). Снаружи же он очень красив и ажурен. Отличить его от других соборов можно: у него башни разные. Я, конечно, утрирую – Ролло крестился в старом соборе, но на этом самом месте в 911 году. Новый собор, как водится, строился долго и кусками – самая старая часть построена в 12 веке. Во время войны собору не повезло, он немного горел и лишился части витражей.

Проект церкви аббатства Сент-Уэн был слизан с Кельнского собора. Но, в отличие от немецкого собрата, он не такой высокий, потому можно хоть что-то рассмотреть без риска вывихнуть шею. И сделан он из другого материала, потому он просто серый, а не выглядит так, будто у его стен жарили мега-шашлыки. Как водится, внутри церква такая же скучная, как все остальные готические соборы. Окружает ее симпатичный садик с цветочками.

Поцелуи замкА с большой вероятностью ожидают желающих посетить церковь Сен-Мало (это не только город, но и местный святой). Церквоь эта невелика и очень изящна. Ее фасад хочется долго рассматривать, но спина упирается в кривой фахверк, в окружении которого она стоит на чрезвычайно живописной площади. При церкви есть оссуарий, и один готический мальчик очень просил разрешения взять оттуда череп (хотя маленький). К счастью, внутри происходили ремонтные работы, и все черепа куда-то сволокли.

Руанские судейские устроились очень готично – буквально. Поскольку сидят они в гигантском здании, построенном в XV веке, пышно украшенном горнульями и прочими страшилками, от которых истцы и ответчики ходят под себя на подходе.

Гуляя по старым улочкам, задирайте голову, чтоб не провтыкать прекрасные старинные городские часы. Проходя под часами, надо тоже задрать голову!



Чем еще можно заняться в Руане? Например, смотаться в Этрета. Сделать селфи на фоне облепленного туристами алебастрового берега и втыкнуть на пейзажи, от которых перло Мане (не путать с Моне).

«Если бы мне нужно было показать другу море, который никогда его не видел, я бы привез его в Этрета» (с) Альфонс Карр.

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  123. Hello this is kind of of off topic but I was wanting to know if blogs use WYSIWYG editors or if you have to manually code with HTML. I’m starting a blog soon but have no coding experience so I wanted to get guidance from someone with experience. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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  129. Today, I went to the beach front with my kids. I found a sea shell and gave it to my 4 year old daughter and said “You can hear the ocean if you put this to your ear.” She placed the shell to her ear and screamed. There was a hermit crab inside and it pinched her ear. She never wants to go back! LoL I know this is totally off topic but I had to tell someone!

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  134. According to my research, after a foreclosures home is sold at a bidding, it is common for the borrower to still have some sort ofthat remaining unpaid debt on the mortgage. There are many loan companies who try to have all fees and liens paid back by the next buyer. Nonetheless, depending on selected programs, restrictions, and state laws there may be quite a few loans that are not easily sorted out through the exchange of financial products. Therefore, the duty still rests on the consumer that has got his or her property in foreclosure process. Thank you for sharing your thinking on this blog site.

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  136. After I originally commented I clicked the -Notify me when new feedback are added- checkbox and now each time a remark is added I get 4 emails with the identical comment. Is there any way you possibly can remove me from that service? Thanks!

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  139. A few things i have seen in terms of computer system memory is always that there are requirements such as SDRAM, DDR or anything else, that must fit the specifications of the motherboard. If the computer’s motherboard is pretty current while there are no os issues, improving the storage space literally will take under sixty minutes. It’s among the list of easiest laptop upgrade procedures one can imagine. Thanks for spreading your ideas.

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  156. I have noticed that credit score improvement activity should be conducted with techniques. If not, you may find yourself causing harm to your position. In order to realize your aspirations in fixing your credit rating you have to ascertain that from this moment you pay your complete monthly fees promptly before their scheduled date. It is definitely significant for the reason that by not necessarily accomplishing this, all other methods that you will choose to adopt to improve your credit positioning will not be powerful. Thanks for revealing your strategies.

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