Маршрут: Киев-Анкара-Тарсус-Мерсин-Кизкалеси-Бозязя-Анамур-Аланья-Конья-Анкара-Киев.
Время: 24 мая- 4 июня 2019 года.
Часть 2: Анамур, Аланья, Конья, Чатал-Гуюк, Силле
Город с чудесным мурчащим названием Анамур известен двумя не менее мурчащими достопримечательностями: крепостью Мамуре и грандиозными развалками (тм) Анемурион ил Анемурий. Анемурион – латинизированный вариант слова “мельница”. Скучища и никаких котиков.
Сам город Анамур такой же безумно древний, как и все в регионе. В 3-2 тыс. д.н.э. здесь существовала хурритское государство Киццуватна, здесь пробегали персы и вездесцущий Македонский, а также римляне, Аримянское царство, Византия и сельджуки. Сейчас это скучный и несимпатичный турецкий город. И моя рукожопость в данном случае сыграла на руку: я, как это часто бывает, натыкала отель на карте. И он оказался не в Анамуре, а в соседнем городке с чудесным названием Бозязы, немедленно переделанным нами в Бозязю.
Бозязя неинтересна вообще ничем. Это крошечный поселок, стоящий в окружении бабановых рощ, гор и моря. Море здесь невероятно теплое, потому что в районе Анамура находится самая южная точка Турции, отсюда даже иногда видно Кипр. Отель оказался огромным, старомодным шестиэтажным монстром, совершенно пустым. Так что галечный пляж и вкусно пахнущий разогретым деревом пирс были в нашем индивидульном пользовании. При этом, как обычно в Турции, все было вымыто, вылизано и ухожено.
Крепость Мамуре – одна из самых больших и хорошо сохранившихся в Турции (39 башен!). Основана она во времена римлян, при Византии и сельджуках перестраивалась и укреплялась. Мамуре означает “процветающая”, хотя слово подозрительно перекликается с остальными мурчащими названиями региона. Крепость была закрыта на реконструкцию, но на самомо деле это не страшно, там внутри все равно ничего не сохранилось. Ее можно обойти по кругу и позаглядывать в бойницы. Во рву живет тьма прожорливых черепаторов, а добрый охранник разрешил нам заглянуть во двор.
Развалки (тм) Анемуриона лежат с другой стороны от города. Это очень годные, разобранные и обустроенные развалки, межу которыми проложена дорожка, так что осматривть их, несмотря на размеры, очень удобно. Основан город был примерно в 7 веке до н.э., хорошо чувствовал себя в античности, одно время в нем проживало около 20 000 жителей. Сохранились театр, огромный некрополь, церкви византийского периода, термы и другие полезные сооружения.
Между Анамуром и Аланией нет автобана. Нет, дорога там вполне приличная, но автобус местами, пожалуй, не проедет. Потому дальше Алании на восток туристов не возят. Зато в Алании их столько, что просто страх божий.
Алания такая же непривлекательная, как и остальные города Турецкой Ривьеры. Ряды отелей сплошняком тянутся вдоль набережной, центр занимают базар и магазины, марина страшная и запружена уродскими погулочными кораблями, хорош только старый город внутри крепостных стен. Правда, местами он здорово запущен.
Город был известен еще до античных времен, хорошо себя чувствовал в составе Византии, но от тех времен в нем ничего не осталось, это совершенно турецкий город, причем в плохом смысле этого слова. Крепость его построена при сельджуках, да и современое название она получила от сельджукского султана Ала ад-Дина Кей-Кубада I. В старом городе можно побродить среди домиков, посмотреть Красную Башню остатки укреплений, пещеру и подняться наверх к крепости, откуда открываются роскошные виды.
От Алании мы повернули на север, но по дороге к Анкаре у нас бы еще один пункт культурной программы – Конья.
Конья – один из самых ортодосальных городов Турции. В сочетании с Рамазаном мне от ужаса показалось, что все замотаны по уши, и меня побьют камнями за короткое платье. Но уже наутро стало понятно, что город наводнен туристами, все одеты как попало, а на наряды ябанджей всем плевать.
Конья чудовищно стара – считается, что ей 4500 лет, она была основана еще при хеттах. Здесь проповедовали апостол Павел и Варнава. Конья хорошо чувствовала себя при византийцах. При сельджуках Конья стала столицей их султаната, центром наук, искусств и суфизма. Здесь жили Омар Хайям и Авиценна. Сейчас это совершенно турецкий город, но в хорошем смысле этого слова. А ортодоксален он в силу своей истории.
Мавлана Джалал ад-Дин Мухаммад Руми – исламский богослов, придумавший принципы суфизма, на основе которых его сын создал орден мевлеви (крутящихся дервишей). Также был очень известен в качестве поэта. Спасаясь от монголов, Руми оставил родной город, долго скитался и в конце концов осел Конье. Его мавзолей является цетром поклонения, вход туда бесплатный.
Недалеко от Коньи архелоги раскопали место под названием Чатал-Гуюк. Это на нынешний момент крупнейшее и наиболее хорошо сохранившееся неолитическое поселение. Основан он был примерно в 7400 году до н.э. и таким образом это самый старый город на земле, даром, что в нем не было улиц, зато в нем проживало 8-10 тысяч человек. Дома в нем были расположены впритык, как соты, вход был через крышу, потому поселение невозможно было взять штурмом. Для туристов около входа есть несколько воссозданных домов и небольшой музей, можно зайти попыриться на раскопки.
Последним пунктом культурной программы стало натыканное на карте случайным образом крошечное село под названием Силле. И, как это обычно и бывает в Турции оно оказалось страшно древним: 5 тысяч лет истории, на холмах норы, где прятались первые христиане, обращенные Павлом и Варнавой, римский мост, церковь, основанная матерью Константина, Еленой, по дороге в Иерусалим. Само село крошечное, но очень колоритное, а османским домикам вдоль реки – по 300 лет.
медицинская справка 2023
I loved as much as you will receive carried out right here. The sketch is tasteful, your authored subject matter stylish. nonetheless, you command get bought an nervousness over that you wish be delivering the following. unwell unquestionably come further formerly again since exactly the same nearly a lot often inside case you shield this increase.
Remarkable! Its really remarkable post, I have got much clear idea concerning from this piece of writing.
I am really thankful to the owner of this web site who has shared this wonderful article at here.
Since the admin of this site is working, no uncertainty very rapidly it will be famous, due to its quality contents.
With havin so much content and articles do you ever run into any problems of plagorism or copyright violation? My site has a lot of completely unique content I’ve either created myself or outsourced but it appears a lot of it is popping it up all over the web without my authorization. Do you know any techniques to help reduce content from being ripped off? I’d truly appreciate it.
For most up-to-date news you have to go to see internet and on internet I found this website as a best website for newest updates.
Hi, I log on to your new stuff like every week. Your writing style is awesome, keep doing what you’re doing!
Your way of explaining everything in this post is truly good, all be able to easily know it, Thanks a lot.
Does your website have a contact page? I’m having a tough time locating it but, I’d like to send you an e-mail. I’ve got some suggestions for your blog you might be interested in hearing. Either way, great site and I look forward to seeing it improve over time.
wonderful issues altogether, you just gained a emblem new reader. What could you suggest in regards to your post that you made a few days ago? Any sure?
Heya! I’m at work browsing your blog from my new iphone 3gs! Just wanted to say I love reading your blog and look forward to all your posts! Keep up the outstanding work!
It’s very straightforward to find out any topic on net as compared to books, as I found this piece of writing at this website.
Howdy! This is kind of off topic but I need some help from an established blog. Is it very difficult to set up your own blog? I’m not very techincal but I can figure things out pretty fast. I’m thinking about setting up my own but I’m not sure where to start. Do you have any points or suggestions? Cheers
Thank you for sharing your info. I truly appreciate your efforts and I am waiting for your next post thank you once again.
I think the admin of this website is in fact working hard for his web site, since here every stuff is quality based data.
I have read so many posts about the blogger lovers but this post is really a nice post, keep it up.
Appreciating the time and energy you put into your site and in depth information you provide. It’s great to come across a blog every once in a while that isn’t the same unwanted rehashed material. Wonderful read! I’ve saved your site and I’m including your RSS feeds to my Google account.
My family members all the time say that I am wasting my time here at net, except I know I am getting knowledge everyday by reading such pleasant posts.
I pay a visit day-to-day some sites and websites to read articles, except this blog provides quality based articles.
Thanks for sharing such a good thought, article is good, thats why i have read it completely
Now I am going to do my breakfast, when having my breakfast coming again to read more news.
With havin so much content and articles do you ever run into any problems of plagorism or copyright violation? My site has a lot of completely unique content I’ve either created myself or outsourced but it appears a lot of it is popping it up all over the web without my agreement. Do you know any techniques to help reduce content from being ripped off? I’d truly appreciate it.
Good answers in return of this difficulty with solid arguments and explaining everything about that.
Wow, marvelous blog layout! How long have you been blogging for? you make blogging glance easy. The whole glance of your web site is fantastic, let alonewell as the content!
Today, I went to the beachfront with my kids. I found a sea shell and gave it to my 4 year old daughter and said “You can hear the ocean if you put this to your ear.” She put the shell to her ear and screamed. There was a hermit crab inside and it pinched her ear. She never wants to go back! LoL I know this is entirely off topic but I had to tell someone!
You really make it seem so easy with your presentation but I find this topic to be really something which I think I would never understand. It seems too complicated and very broad for me. I am looking forward for your next post, I will try to get the hang of it!
Appreciating the hard work you put into your website and in depth information you present. It’s great to come across a blog every once in a while that isn’t the same out of date rehashed material. Fantastic read! I’ve saved your site and I’m including your RSS feeds to my Google account.
Fantastic beat ! I wish to apprentice while you amend your web site, how can i subscribe for a blog web site? The account aided me a acceptable deal. I had been tiny bit acquainted of this your broadcast provided bright clear concept
Hi, I do think your web site may be having browser compatibility issues. When I look at your website in Safari, it looks fine however, if opening in Internet Explorer, it has some overlapping issues. I simply wanted to give you a quick heads up! Besides that, great website!
Hi there to every one, it’s truly a good for me to go to see this website, it contains priceless Information.
Good day! I just want to give you a huge thumbs up for the great info you have here on this post. I’ll be coming back to your site for more soon.
I like the valuable information you provide in your articles. I will bookmark your weblog and check again here frequently. I am quite certain I will learn many new stuff right here! Good luck for the next!
Hello there, You have done a great job. I will definitely digg it and personally recommend to my friends. I am sure they will be benefited from this site.
Nice post. I used to be checking continuously this blog and I am inspired! Very useful information specially the ultimate phase
I take care of such info a lot. I used to be seeking this particular info for a long timelong time. Thank you and good luck.
Howdy! This is my first visit to your blog! We are a collection of volunteers and starting a new initiative in a community in the same niche. Your blog provided us valuable information to work on. You have done a outstanding job!
Do you mind if I quote a couple of your posts as long as I provide credit and sources back to your site? My website is in the very same area of interest as yours and my visitors would genuinely benefit from a lot of the information you present here. Please let me know if this alright with you. Thank you!
I must thank you for the efforts you have put in writing this website. I’m hoping to view the same high-grade blog posts from you in the future as well. In fact, your creative writing abilities has motivated me to get my very own website now 😉
I simply could not leave your site prior to suggesting that I really enjoyed the standard information a person supply in your visitors? Is going to be back frequently in order to check out new posts
Исключительный частный эротический массаж в Москве в боди салоне
When I originally commented I clicked the “Notify me when new comments are added” checkbox and now each time a comment is added I get four emails with the same comment. Is there any way you can remove me from that service? Appreciate it!
I’m gone to tell my little brother, that he should also go to see this webpage on regular basis to take updated from most up-to-date reports.
I’m not sure where you are getting your info, but good topic. I needs to spend some time learning more or understanding more. Thanks for magnificent information I was looking for this information for my mission.
naturally like your website however you need to test the spelling on quite a few of your posts. Several of them are rife with spelling problems and I find it very bothersome to tell the truth on the other hand I will certainly come back again.
It’s very trouble-free to find out any topic on net as compared to books, as I found this post at this site.
My programmer is trying to persuade me to move to .net from PHP. I have always disliked the idea because of the expenses. But he’s tryiong none the less. I’ve been using Movable-type on several websites for about a year and am worried about switching to another platform. I have heard very good things about blogengine.net. Is there a way I can transfer all my wordpress content into it? Any kind of help would be really appreciated!
Appreciation to my father who shared with me about this blog, this weblog is really awesome.
If you are going for best contents like I do, simply go to see this website daily since it provides quality contents, thanks
This is my first time go to see at here and i am really happy to read all at alone place.
Howdy! I could have sworn I’ve been to this blog before but after going through a few of the posts I realized it’s new to me. Anyways, I’m definitely pleased I found it and I’ll be bookmarking it and checking back regularly!
Your style is so unique compared to other people I have read stuff from. Thank you for posting when you have the opportunity, Guess I will just bookmark this site.
What’s up friends, its wonderful piece of writing regarding tutoringand completely explained, keep it up all the time.
Fantastic site you have here but I was curious if you knew of any community forums that cover the same topics talked about in this article? I’d really love to be a part of group where I can get opinions from other knowledgeable individuals that share the same interest. If you have any recommendations, please let me know. Bless you!
I am really loving the theme/design of your web site. Do you ever run into any web browser compatibility problems? A handful of my blog audience have complained about my website not operating correctly in Explorer but looks great in Safari. Do you have any advice to help fix this issue?
naturally like your website however you need to test the spelling on quite a few of your posts. Several of them are rife with spelling problems and I find it very bothersome to tell the truth then again I will certainly come back again.
I love your blog.. very nice colors & theme. Did you create this website yourself or did you hire someone to do it for you? Plz reply as I’m looking to create my own blog and would like to know where u got this from. thank you
whoah this blog is great i love reading your articles. Stay up the good work! You know, a lot of individuals are searching around for this info, you can help them greatly.
Hi there Dear, are you really visiting this site daily, if so then you will absolutely get good experience.
Hey this is kinda of off topic but I was wondering if blogs use WYSIWYG editors or if you have to manually code with HTML. I’m starting a blog soon but have no coding know-how so I wanted to get advice from someone with experience. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hi, i think that i saw you visited my website so i came to return the favor.I am trying to find things to improve my site!I suppose its ok to use some of your ideas!!
My brother suggested I would possibly like this website. He was totally right. This submit actually made my day. You cann’t consider just how so much time I had spent for this information! Thank you!
I think this is one of the such a lot significant information for me. And i’m glad reading your article. However wanna observation on few common things, The site taste is great, the articles is actually nice : D. Good process, cheers
Thank you for any other fantastic article. Where else may anyone get that kind of information in such a perfect means of writing? I have a presentation next week, and I am at the look for such information.
This is very interesting, You are a very skilled blogger. I have joined your feed and look forward to seeking more of your great post. Also, I have shared your web site in my social networks!
I am actually thankful to the owner of this web site who has shared this enormous piece of writing at at this place.
I’m now not sure where you are getting your info, however good topic. I needs to spend a while studying more or working out more. Thank you for magnificent information I used to be in search of this information for my mission.
whoah this blog is wonderful i love reading your articles. Stay up the good work! You understand, many individuals are hunting around for this info, you can help them greatly.
The other day, while I was at work, my sister stole my iPad and tested to see if it can survive a 40 foot drop, just so she can be a youtube sensation. My iPad is now broken and she has 83 views. I know this is completely off topic but I had to share it with someone!
Woah! I’m really loving the template/theme of this website. It’s simple, yet effective. A lot of times it’s very hard to get that “perfect balance” between user friendliness and visual appearance. I must say you have done a superb job with this. In addition, the blog loads very fast for me on Internet explorer. Outstanding Blog!
This is the right web site for anybody who really wants to find out about this topic. You understand so much its almost hard to argue with you (not that I actually would want toHaHa). You definitely put a new spin on a topic that’s been written about for a long time. Great stuff, just excellent!
Really no matter if someone doesn’t understand then its up to other viewers that they will help, so here it happens.