Маршрут: Киев-Анкара-Тарсус-Мерсин-Кизкалеси-Бозязя-Анамур-Аланья-Конья-Анкара-Киев.
Время: 24 мая- 4 июня 2019 года.
Часть 2: Анамур, Аланья, Конья, Чатал-Гуюк, Силле
Город с чудесным мурчащим названием Анамур известен двумя не менее мурчащими достопримечательностями: крепостью Мамуре и грандиозными развалками (тм) Анемурион ил Анемурий. Анемурион – латинизированный вариант слова “мельница”. Скучища и никаких котиков.
Сам город Анамур такой же безумно древний, как и все в регионе. В 3-2 тыс. д.н.э. здесь существовала хурритское государство Киццуватна, здесь пробегали персы и вездесцущий Македонский, а также римляне, Аримянское царство, Византия и сельджуки. Сейчас это скучный и несимпатичный турецкий город. И моя рукожопость в данном случае сыграла на руку: я, как это часто бывает, натыкала отель на карте. И он оказался не в Анамуре, а в соседнем городке с чудесным названием Бозязы, немедленно переделанным нами в Бозязю.
Бозязя неинтересна вообще ничем. Это крошечный поселок, стоящий в окружении бабановых рощ, гор и моря. Море здесь невероятно теплое, потому что в районе Анамура находится самая южная точка Турции, отсюда даже иногда видно Кипр. Отель оказался огромным, старомодным шестиэтажным монстром, совершенно пустым. Так что галечный пляж и вкусно пахнущий разогретым деревом пирс были в нашем индивидульном пользовании. При этом, как обычно в Турции, все было вымыто, вылизано и ухожено.
Крепость Мамуре – одна из самых больших и хорошо сохранившихся в Турции (39 башен!). Основана она во времена римлян, при Византии и сельджуках перестраивалась и укреплялась. Мамуре означает “процветающая”, хотя слово подозрительно перекликается с остальными мурчащими названиями региона. Крепость была закрыта на реконструкцию, но на самомо деле это не страшно, там внутри все равно ничего не сохранилось. Ее можно обойти по кругу и позаглядывать в бойницы. Во рву живет тьма прожорливых черепаторов, а добрый охранник разрешил нам заглянуть во двор.
Развалки (тм) Анемуриона лежат с другой стороны от города. Это очень годные, разобранные и обустроенные развалки, межу которыми проложена дорожка, так что осматривть их, несмотря на размеры, очень удобно. Основан город был примерно в 7 веке до н.э., хорошо чувствовал себя в античности, одно время в нем проживало около 20 000 жителей. Сохранились театр, огромный некрополь, церкви византийского периода, термы и другие полезные сооружения.
Между Анамуром и Аланией нет автобана. Нет, дорога там вполне приличная, но автобус местами, пожалуй, не проедет. Потому дальше Алании на восток туристов не возят. Зато в Алании их столько, что просто страх божий.
Алания такая же непривлекательная, как и остальные города Турецкой Ривьеры. Ряды отелей сплошняком тянутся вдоль набережной, центр занимают базар и магазины, марина страшная и запружена уродскими погулочными кораблями, хорош только старый город внутри крепостных стен. Правда, местами он здорово запущен.
Город был известен еще до античных времен, хорошо себя чувствовал в составе Византии, но от тех времен в нем ничего не осталось, это совершенно турецкий город, причем в плохом смысле этого слова. Крепость его построена при сельджуках, да и современое название она получила от сельджукского султана Ала ад-Дина Кей-Кубада I. В старом городе можно побродить среди домиков, посмотреть Красную Башню остатки укреплений, пещеру и подняться наверх к крепости, откуда открываются роскошные виды.
От Алании мы повернули на север, но по дороге к Анкаре у нас бы еще один пункт культурной программы – Конья.
Конья – один из самых ортодосальных городов Турции. В сочетании с Рамазаном мне от ужаса показалось, что все замотаны по уши, и меня побьют камнями за короткое платье. Но уже наутро стало понятно, что город наводнен туристами, все одеты как попало, а на наряды ябанджей всем плевать.
Конья чудовищно стара – считается, что ей 4500 лет, она была основана еще при хеттах. Здесь проповедовали апостол Павел и Варнава. Конья хорошо чувствовала себя при византийцах. При сельджуках Конья стала столицей их султаната, центром наук, искусств и суфизма. Здесь жили Омар Хайям и Авиценна. Сейчас это совершенно турецкий город, но в хорошем смысле этого слова. А ортодоксален он в силу своей истории.
Мавлана Джалал ад-Дин Мухаммад Руми – исламский богослов, придумавший принципы суфизма, на основе которых его сын создал орден мевлеви (крутящихся дервишей). Также был очень известен в качестве поэта. Спасаясь от монголов, Руми оставил родной город, долго скитался и в конце концов осел Конье. Его мавзолей является цетром поклонения, вход туда бесплатный.
Недалеко от Коньи архелоги раскопали место под названием Чатал-Гуюк. Это на нынешний момент крупнейшее и наиболее хорошо сохранившееся неолитическое поселение. Основан он был примерно в 7400 году до н.э. и таким образом это самый старый город на земле, даром, что в нем не было улиц, зато в нем проживало 8-10 тысяч человек. Дома в нем были расположены впритык, как соты, вход был через крышу, потому поселение невозможно было взять штурмом. Для туристов около входа есть несколько воссозданных домов и небольшой музей, можно зайти попыриться на раскопки.
Последним пунктом культурной программы стало натыканное на карте случайным образом крошечное село под названием Силле. И, как это обычно и бывает в Турции оно оказалось страшно древним: 5 тысяч лет истории, на холмах норы, где прятались первые христиане, обращенные Павлом и Варнавой, римский мост, церковь, основанная матерью Константина, Еленой, по дороге в Иерусалим. Само село крошечное, но очень колоритное, а османским домикам вдоль реки – по 300 лет.
медицинская справка 2023
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