10/12/2018Irkk

Не такий страшний чорт: Каппадокия зимой

Каппадокия зимой – идея, на первый взгляд, стремная и странная. Инторнетики пугали волками и снежными завалами. Все, конечно, оказалось преувеличенным, а в зимнем путешествии нашлись свои жирные плюсы.

Что вообще такое Каппадокия? Это здоровенная территория с кучей долин, имеющих разный рельеф. В некоторые из этих долин зимой действительно попасть нельзя, там снега по пояс. И, наверное, волки. Несомненный плюс – практически полное отсуствие туристов, которое в теплое время года натурально толпы. Там и сям по региону разбросаны городки разной степени красоты и интересности.

Принято считать, что название переводится с персидского, как «страна прекрасных лошадей». В первый же вечер на фоне укуренных скальных образований Розовой Долины мы увидели мужика с собакой, которые выгуливали лошадь и решили, что названием себя оправдало.

В Каппадокии решено было остановиться в Гереме, местечке, которое называют воротами в Каппадокию. Это действительно удобное место для вылазок, кроме того, чрезвычайно колоритное, поскольку каменные столбы торчат прямо в городке. Здесь также множество отелей, ресторанов и лавочек. Притом, один из ресторанов, конечно, находится прямо в столбе, который раньше был римской гробницей. Сразу оговорюсь, что остальные городки региона намного менее благоустроены или просто скучны (как Аванос, например).

Гереме, вид из отеля

Чтобы полностью проникнуться, лучше останавливаться в пещерном отеле. Все посетившие Каппадокию зимой писали, что отель нужно брать с центральным отоплением. Но дело в том, что все эти странные образования состоят из туфа, мягкого материала, который удобно рыть (это он потом затвердевает) и просто обогревать. Если поставить в такой пещере несколько свечей, можно добиться температуры градусов в 17. В итоге у нас было так жарко, что все батареи пришлось прикрутить и открыть все имеющиеся окна (аж одно в предбаннике). В отеле на окраине это довольно стремно: по крайней мере, местные коты так и норовили просочиться (не забываем про волков).

Без машины передвигаться тут неудобно, расстояния довольно приличные, а в некоторые места и вовсе не добраться без своего транспорта. Дороги, кстати, отличные, так что можно не бояться брать машину напрокат.

В день приезда мы мало что успели, разве что одним глазом заглянуть в долину любви и увидеть «семейство» каменных столбов, а уж с утра принялись за достопримечательности вплотную. Начали, конечно, с самого парка Гереме, потому что близко. Самая интересная церковь, Токали, кстати, находится снаружи парка, фрески в ней сохранились наиболее хорошо.

В Гереме было льдисто и очень шумно из-за японских туристов, которые орали, фотографировались и падали.

Главная фишка Каппадокии в том, что во многих каменных образованиях жили люди, причем жили так давно, что хронология до сих пор под вопросом – то ли со времен хеттов, то ли еще раньше. В средние века тут был центр христианства, потому с тех пор сохранилось около 3000 церквей. Прямо скажем, не все доступны и не все пристойно выглядят – со времен ухода отсюда греков (а точнее насильственной высылки) за ними никто не присматривал.

Из Гереме наш путь лежал в удивительное место (впрочем, а что там не удивительное) под названием Пашабаг. В переводе это означает «Долина Монахов», поскольку в местных столбах с удовольствием селились отшельники. Например, Симеон Столпник провел в этой штуке 30 лет. Романтически настроенные исследователи позднее назвали их каминами фей.

Из Пашабага мы поехали в Зельве, где народу как раз не было вообще. Зельве – это целый город, где люди жили аж до 50 годов 20 века. Уйти их заставили землетрясения. Тут сохранились магазины, амбары, разное производство, мечеть и целых 15 церквей. Опознать их, правда, непросто, потому что они строились в период иконоборчества.

Соседний с Гереме городок – Учхисар сам по себе не особо интересен (и совершенно не благоустроен для туристов), но в нем есть напоминающая термитник крепость, расположенная внутри гигантского каменного столба. Сама крепость стоит посещения хотя бы ради открывающихся с нее пейзажей. Подобная крепость есть еще в Ортахисаре, только городок там не в пример страшнее. Обе крепости использовались еще в хеттский период, кто их построил, неизвестно.

Кроме каменных столбов, Каппадокия известна также своими пещерными городами, многие из которых были найдены людьми едва ли не в своих дворах и огородах. Известно 6 городов, но раскопаны в достаточной мере, конечно, не все. Мы поехали в самый известный под названием Деринкую. Всю дорогу я распевала песню собственного сочинения: Деринку, Деринкую, вертел я это на… Как оказалось, не зря.

Поскольку у меня клаустрофобия в легкой форме, я решила куртуазно попить чаю около входа в город. Но это было до того, как я увидела это Деринкую собственными глазами. Слова Деринкую и куртуазно просто не могут ужиться в одном предложении. Разваленные домики и заколоченная церковь, исписанная граффити, и полное отсутствие заведений общепита нагнали на меня страху и желания забуриться в подземный город, лишь бы этого не видеть.

Город состоит из 8 этажей, но раскопано всего 4. На самом деле там светло и даже довольно просторно, поскольку жители обитали там месяцами вместе со скотом, забаррикадировавшись от пробегавших врагов, начиная еще с хеттов. Но переходы с этажа на этаж вызывают некислые приступы паники.

Внутри снова были встречены японские туристы. На сей раз они молчали. Видимо, тоже от ужаса.

В интернете я начиталась про минеральные источники в округе Нигде (да, даже название доставляет). Вдоль дороги простиралось белое безмолвие, а карта с надписями «нигде» выглядела совершенно сюрреалистично.

В жерле потухшего вулкана находится озеро Нар (оно же Аджы). Практичные турки подвели к нему трубы и построили рядом два санатория. За 10 лир можно похамамиться и сколько влезет преть в воде с температурой 60 градусов.

Хорошенько откиснув, мы двинулись в Саганлы, местечко, куда маршрутка ходит два раза в неделю и где есть куча старинных церквей. Добраться туда без машины занятия практически нереальное. К сожалению, посмотреть все не удалось, потому что подходы к ним были завалены снегом. Кроме церквей и домов внутри каменных столбов, в Саганлы много голубятен, поскольку с древности в Каппадокии выращивали виноград, а для него, как известно, нет ничего лучше птичьего гуана.

Говорят, местные до сих пор живут в домах, высеченных в скалах, но дорога в саму деревню не внушала доверия.

Тут мы вспомнили, что продавец в долине Пашабаг советовал нам непременно увидеть Камеля в долине Дервент, что означает «воображение». Местные скалы тоже совершенно не похожи на скалы в других долинах, зато камель и правда похож на верблюда. Это, кстати, одна из немногих долин, где нет церквей.

Последним пунктом в этот день был Аванос, самый скучный городок региона (хуже только Невшехир, но там есть шоппинг и Мадо). Аванос славится своими гончарными изделиями, но мы тут просто бездуховно пожрали.

На следующий день были довольно обширные планы, но повалил снег, потому мы быстро заскочили в церковь в Чавушине, которая тоже похожа на термитник. Это церковь Никефора Фокаса или Голубиная. Император посетил ее во время строительства. Церковь построена в 10 веке, в ней даже сохранились некоторые фрески.

Как оказалось, решение ехать в Каппадокию зимой было очень верным. Во-первых, марсианские пейзажи только выигрывали от снежного покрова, а туристов во многих местах не было совсем. Цены при этом поражают воображение (в хорошем смысле).

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