Путешествие на сумрачный остров

Мон Сен-Мишель, гора святого Михаила – одна из самых заезженных достопримечательностей Европы. Все видели фоточки острова-крепости, возвышающегося над плоской равниной, все про него читали, но, как обычно, к зрелищу подготовить не может ничего.


Он большой, он чудовищно огромный. Его окружают целые поля серо-коричневого уныния. Пейзаж грандиозный, но угнетающий даже в хорошую погоду.


Бросив машину, нужно около 3 км пилить по этому унынию пешком, через мост. Но для слабых духом есть вонючие попы лошадок-тяжеловозов за 6 евро и бесплатный быстрый, но скучный автобус.


Сен-Мишель на горизонте становится все больше и вот уже нависает сверху гигантским серым массивом.
Аббатство венчает холм, застроенный старинными домишками. До 3,5 млн.туристов в год заполняют крошечные улочки. В итоге все дома заняты кафе, ресторанами и пошлейшими сувенирными лавками. Улочки запружены толпами.

Дорога ведёт вверх, где путешественника встречает гигантская лестница и гигантская же очередь в кассу (наверняка внизу или по интернету тоже можно купить билеты).

Пропихавшись сквозь неё, турист благоговейно замирает: перед ним почти 1500 лет истории.

Первые поселения на Могильной Горе возникли ещё при кельтах, а первые христианские постройки – примерно в 6 веке. Конечно, все это валилось, горело, завоевывалось, перестраивалось, было заброшено и возродилось вновь. Здесь даже была тюрьма, в основном для политических узников.


Гора стояла на границе Бретани и Нормандии, ее вечно кто-то домогался и пытался (иногда успешно) взять штурмом.


Со смотровой площадки у главной церкви аббатства открываются гнусно-грандиозные пейзажи: едва ли не до горизонта тянутся пески, кое-где залитые отступившей водой. Наверняка во время прилива зрелище повеселее. Темные камни аббатства с этим пейзажем отлично гармонируют.


Главная церковь тоже мрачная, в романском приземистом стиле, кроме центрального нефа и устремленного в небеса шпиля. Того самого, который издалека видно и в который, конечно же, неизбежно попадала молния.


Интерьеры многочисленных залов, часовен и крипт не сохранились, есть только камень, окна, камины и колонны. Внезапной яркой зеленью поражает травка во внутреннем дворике. Где-то в глубинах монастыря прячутся около десятка монахинь. Наверное, у них какие-то интерьеры есть.


Ошалевшие от камней и грандиозности сооружения, придавленные сотнями лет истории, туристы вываливаются в скромный, очень скромный монастырский садик, вытаскивают еду и принимаются жрать. Духовная пища требует больших энергетических затрат.


Очухавшись, они разбредаются по ресторанам, пескам, оборонительным стенам или бредут на стоянку.
Если бы мне нужно было охарактеризовать Сен-Мишель тремя словами, я бы сказала: мощь, высота и суровость.

 

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