14/03/2019Irkk

Испанский девишник

Сложно вспомнить, кого из теток посетила благословенная мысль провести девишник в Сеговии и Саламанке. Но мысль эта оказалась гениальной.

Про Саламанку я не знала ровным счетом ничего. Звучит очень красиво: эдакая помесь из саламандры, Касабланки и оттоманки. Конечно, прямых рейсов туда нет, потому пункт сбора объявлялся в Мадриде.

Мадрид – это такой странный город, где, вроде, особо нечего смотреть, но там очень приятно находиться. Климат, много зелени, широкие улицы, пышная арнувобля, великолепная еда и шопинг – все это создает чудесную атмосферу. Там хочется гулять, забредая в лавки и сгребая все подряд (в основном обувь) и ходить на рынок Сен-Мигель пожрать, что мы и делали с завидной регулярностью. И, конечно, в Мадриде надо обязательно сходить в парк Ретиро. Потому что там хрустальный дворец, пруд с уточками и мега-пруд с пафосным памятником.

  • Жратва на рынке Сен-Мигель
  • Тапасы!!!
  • Парк Ретиро
  • Хрустальный дворец
  • Ретиро
  • Ретиро
  • Ретиро
  • Королевский дворец
  • Царский зад
  • Пляса ди Ориенте
  • Дворец
  • Голова гигантского младенца – скульптура под названием “Кристина спит”

Первым пунктом нашей программы была Сеговия. Весь центр Сеговии чохом включен во Всемирное Наследие Юнеско. Основана она еще римлянами и от них сохранился акведук, идущий через центр города и сообщающий ему особую атмосферу. Это самый длинный римский акведук в Европе, считается, что он построен во времена Веспасиана (того, который построил Колизей и сообщил сыночке о том, что деньги не пахнут).

Сам город очень компактный, старый город застроен средневековыми домами, машин там почти нет в силу рельефа, потому погружение в эпоху полное. Сохранились стены, ворота и еврейский квартал. Правда, все синагоги, включая главную, переделали под церкви.

На одной из центральных площадей, Святого Мартина, стоит памятник Хуану Браво – это один из предводителей восстания коммунарес (ага, почти коммунисты). Когда Карл V пришел к власти он начал на ключевые посты ставить фламандцев (потому что по совместительству он был императором Священной Римской Империи). Местным это не понравилось, они потребовали самоуправления и подняли бучу. Но были плохо организованы и разбиты. Дольше всех брыкалась жена предводителя, Хуана Падильи, Мария Пачеко. Эта славная женщина родом из Гранады заперлась в Толедо и отбивалась еще пять месяцев. А потом убежала в Португалию.

В Сеговии мы поселились очень жирно – в бывшем монастыре. Частично это все еще монастырь, куда можно сходить с экскурсией, а частично – довольно пафосный отель. Акведук начинается неподалеку от отеля, так что заблудиться невозможно.

  • Отель
  • Он же
  • Наш монастырь Сан-Антонио эль Реал
  • Он же

Сеговия полна стареньких церквей, многие из которых закрыты. Скажем, видишь купол, бредешь к нему, ходишь кругами, но подобраться из тесно стоящих домов так и не можешь.

  • Акведук
  • Пласа Майор
  • Фонтан на площади Сен-Мартин
  • Бывшая Синагога
  • Она же
  • Она же
  • Ворота в Худерию
  • Худерия – еврейский квартал

На Пласа Майор стоит Сеговийский собор. Он такой огромный, что пропустить его никак не возможно. Это последний готический собор в Европе. Строили его в 16 веке, потому что предыдущий коммунерос развалили.

Самое пафосное место, из-за которого все прутся в Сеговию – Алькасар. Как явствует из названия, по идее это мавританская крепость. Но на самом деле, когда ее начали строить, мавров в Сеговии не было и в помине. Собственно, в архитектуре их влияние и не ощущается. Кроме Алькасара, в интерьерах которого нет-нет, да и проскочит мавританский элемент.

Отвоевал Толедо и Сеговию у мавров король Альфонсо № 6. У него была та же проблема, что и у Генриха № 8 английского – у него рождались одни девочки. И только мавританская то ли жена, то ли любовница (дочь эмира Севильи) родила ему сына. К сожалению, в 14 лет сына убили в сражении. Король, конечно, очень убивался. А ведь девочка, которая стала править после него, была ничем не хуже мальчика! Муж у Урраки (так звали девочку) был, но, увы, умер. Испанскую знать сильно вспучило: какжы королева и без мужика! Тут уже вспучило Урраку. Подсунутого ей мужа, Альфонсо Воителя, короля Наварры и Арагона, она забанила (вы представляете, каким надо было быть ушлепком, чтоб в средние века назвали Воителем?) и обвинила в жестоком обращении. Ее вполне устраивали испанские претенденты (и потом у нее с обоими был асисяй), но почему-то они не устроили местное дворянство.

Новоиспеченного мужа холодность жены тоже не устраивала, потому всю оставшуюся жизнь Урраки они провели в сражениях, втянув в него в том числе жителей Сеговии.

Самые красивые открыточные виды Алькасара открываются с другого берега реки. Там же находится и старенькая, маленькая, но очень интересная тамплиерская церковь. Внутри – странное помещение, непонятно для чего нужное. Будто храм в храме. Возможно, именно там тамплиеры мутили свои странные обряды с черными котами и петухами. Хотя это наверняка просто враки Папы Римского.

По настроению и атмосфере Сеговия тихая, провинциальная, готическая, средневековая.

Контраст с Саламанкой, которая всего в полутора часах езды – разительный.

Саламанка буквально кипит жизнью. С тех пор, как в XI веке здесь появилась школа, позднее ставшая университетом. Саламанка быстро встала в один ряд с лучшими университетами Европы, да и сейчас тут учится не менее 30 000 человек.

Несмотря на то, что город также застраивался в средние века, по настроению он совершенно другой: просторный, светлый, розово-золотистый. Такое ощущение создается из-за использованного строительного материала. А возрождением города после мавров и его застройкой занимался Раймонд Бургундский, тот самый первый муж Урраки. Как видим, парень он был неплохой, жаль, что рано умер.

Достопримечательности здесь соответствующие: корпуса университета, самый старый из которых был построен в XIV веке, разнообразные колледжи и монастыри – ведь основная масса преподавателей была монахами и всякими теологами.

Самое старое университетское здание – колледж Фонсеки (в честь построившего ее архиепископа), он отстоит чуть в стороне от центра, но в Саламанке в целом все очень компактно.

Внутри нас ожидал дивно прекрасный внутренний двор, резные деревянные потолки, пособия по анатомии и опять головы, такие же, как мы встретили на вокзале в Мадриде. Оказалось, что это шЫдевр современного искусства – Кристина спит и Кристина просыпается. В парке Ретиро в Мадриде они тоже были, только прозрачные, заметить их можно лишь с наступлением темноты. Хоррор-хоррор!

Знаменитый школьный дворик окружают старые университетские здания, в которые можно зайти за деньги. Все, абсолютно все приличные и не очень люди Испании (и не только) тут учились: от Сервантеса и Кортеса до Джулио Мазарини, Торквемады и Игнасио Лойолы. Здесь разработали новую правовую систему (аж с правами человека. Жаль, Изабелла и Фердинанд, выгнавшие из страны евреев, ничего о ней не знали) и признали учение Коперника.

На некоторые факультеты можно зайти совершенно бесплатно и попыриться. В некоторые вход платный. В знаменитом доме с ракушками – публичная библиотека, поэтому по ней можно невозбранно лазить, рассматривая все внутри.

Дом принадлежал профессору права, дону Родриго Мальдонадо де Талавера, который также был ректором. Ракушки на фасаде – это символ ордена Сантьяго, к которому принадлежал профессор. Это те же ракушки, которыми обозначен путь в Сантьяго-де-Компостела. В доме восхитительный внутренний дворик.

Мы с тетками, конечно, об этом не знали, но увидели его, когда полезли на соседнюю церковь – Святого Духа. Она построена в XVI веке в типично испанском стиле платереско. Влезть на нее надо обязательно – виды мозговыносящие.

Не менее потрясающие виды открываются с крыши собора. Все средневековые соборы похожи изнутри (а часто и снаружи). Видел один – видел все. Собор Саламанки немного отличается (платереско там, резьба и все такое). Кроме того, он больше рвется вширь, чем ввысь. Потому по его крышам проложены маршруты, по которым можно бродить, обозревая окрестности. Также он уникален тем, что место не экономили, потому старый собор сносить не стали, а просто пристроили к нему новый. Они соединены друг с другом, зайти можно в оба. Вообще человек непосвященный даже не поймет, что это два собора, слившихся в один. В старом велось преподавание, пока не начали строить корпуса универа. Здесь полно всякого страдающего средневековья и восхитительно пахнет сараем.

В Саламанке нужно обязательно сходить в два монастыря – Лас Дуэньяс и Сан-Эстебан. Один мужской, другой женский. Оба – доминиканские и стоят друг напротив друга. Мужской, который Сан-Эстебан, с собором, весь такой платереско, большой, пафосный, очень красивый. Даже лестница на второй этаж выносит мозг настолько, что хочется стоять, втыкать и сфоткать ее миллион раз во всех ракурсах. Внутренний двор прекрасен и просторен. Здесь целый Колумб выступал.

Женский монастырь – поменьше, более камерный, мимо входа можно проскочить. Дворик маленький и уютный, но, о боги, как же упоролся его архитектор. Сложно сказать, что он хотел поведать миру, но капитель каждой колонны украшена жуткими чертями: мужики с сиськами, шахтеры, жутко скрюченные фигуры каких-то демонов, накуренные барашки. Ни одна капитель не повторяется, каждую хочется рассматривать и офигевать.

Как отличить платереско и чурригереско от всяких барокко и мудехара? Если дело происходит в Испании, особенно в Кастилии, смело можно ляпять, что это платереско или чурригереско (весь мудехар тут почти изжили вместе с маврами). Страшное слово чурригереско – это стиль, придуманный братьями Чурригеро. Они, кстати, жили в Саламанке. В общем, если видите в Кастилии Пласа Майор (а она в любом городе есть) – это чурригереско. Если видите монастырь, церковь, красивый дом весь в завитушках (похоже на готику и немного барокко) – это платереско. Если дело происходит в Андалусии, а здание напоминает что-то восточное – это мудехар. Если дело происходит в Португалии и использованы морские мотивы- это мануэлино. Смотрите, Кутузовы, не перепутайте.

Собственно, первую пласу майор в привычном уже стиле (квадратная, здания окружают ее сплошняком, все сплошь дворцы одинаковой высоты, а в центре ратуша) построили именно в Саламанке. И она, в общем, ничем почти не отличается от других, кроме росписей и барельефов на фронтонах зданий.

Пласа майор

Еще одно интересное здание Саламанки – Каса Лис, дом промышленника, построенный в начале 20 века. Строго рекомендуется к посещению любителям модерна и разной арнувобли. Фасад сплошь стеклянный и смотреть его надо вечером. Внутри музей изящных фигурок, очень необычный и интересный. Витражи делал целый Рене Лалик. К сожалению, фоткать внутри нельзя.  

Все фотки кликабельны. И вот еще Саламанка пучком.

  • Филологический факультет
  • Собор
  • Шоколадик и чуросы

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