31/07/2019Irkk

На восток! Путешествие вдоль Средиземноморского побережья Турции

Маршрут: Киев-Анкара-Тарсус-Мерсин-Кизкалеси-Бозязя-Анамур-Аланья-Конья-Анкара-Киев.

Время: 24 мая- 4 июня 2019 года.

Как мы дошли до жизни такой: пинтерес, в котором я обожаю ковыряться в поисках картинок, потыкал в меня фото места под названием “Люди в Скалах” (Адам Калаяр). И сообщил, что это округ Мерсин. Конечно же, в округе Мерсин нашлось еще много интересного, поскольку раньше тут была древняя Киликия.

Но скачала была Анкара, где произошла няшная развиртуализация с моими фейсбучными френдами, которые не только нас встретили, кормили и поили, но и свезли на первые развалки (тм) – в древний Гордион. Сама Анкара тоже страшно древняя – примерно 12 век до н.э., но тут ничего не происходило, кроме ангорских коз и кроликов. Зато происходило в Гордионе, бывшем некогда столицей Фригии, одного из многочисленных древних государств Малой Азии. Гордион разваливается в часе езды от Анкары.

По преданию, здесь проезжал Александр Македонский (потому что в Малой Азии он везде проезжал) и, не став заморачиваться, разрубил сложный узел, завязанный царем Гордием. По легенде, тот, кто разрубит узел, станет повелителем Азии. Более авторитетные источники утверждают, что Александр все же справился не только силой, но и уровнем интеллекта.

Город сохранился крайне плохо, зато отлично сохранился курган самого Гордия. Вообще долгое время считалось, что это просто холм. Ну, просто такая холмистая местность. Но выяснилось, что все это курганы, числом более ста. Самого Гордия в гробнице нет, но внутрь можно зайти. Хотя бы для того, чтобы впечатлиться размерами и сохранностью дерева.

Далее наш путь лежал в Мерсин, где планировалось остановиться на одну ночь. Но по дороге еще был Тарсус. Сейчас в Тарсусе ничего не напоминает о славном прошлом. Кое-где сохранились старые дома в османском стиле, многие из которых заброшены. Когда-то же здесь была столица Киликии. При Селевкидах Тарсус был центром наук и искусств, статус кво сохранился и при римлянах.

В Тарсусе родился апостол Павел, тогда еще Савл, получивший великолепное образование. Сейчас в Тарсусе можно получить разве что великолепный лахмаджун. И посетить то, что осталось от дома Павла: фундамент и колодец. Сам Павел поприветствовал нас бодро улепетывающей черепашкой.

Мерсин – огромный современный город, с едва ли не наибольшим в Турции индустриальным портом и роскошной набережной. О его прошлом также почти ничего не напоминает. Между тем, он тоже страшно древний: самый ранний культурный слой датируется 6300 годом до н. э., а городские укрепления были возведены в 4500 году до н. э.

В Мерсине никто не купается, по той же причине, что и в Стамбуле. Потому мы взяли отличный отель с бассейном, который к тому же оказался пустым (Рамазан). В Мерсине можно отлично пошопиться и посмотреть немного развалок (тм), а на пляж все ездят в Кизкалеси, где мы остановились на три ночи.

Время в пути час, и по дороге еще море развалок. Но в бывшей Киликии лучше сразу смириться с тем, что увидеть все не получится. Или нужно провести тут месяц минимум.

Кизкалеси – это место, куда мерсинцы ездят купаться. И действительно – здесь замечательные, широченные песчаные пляжи с чудесным видом на замок Кизкалеси, расположенный на островке в море.

Городок небольшой, состоящий буквально из пары улиц. Тут есть пара супермаркетов и несколько гостиниц. Причем по случаю Рамазана многие были вообще закрыты, а пляжи полупусты. Городской пляж большой и чистый, но пляж рядом с развалками (тм) – еще лучше. Оба, конечно, оборудованы всем необходимым.

Развалки – это руины крепости Корикоса. Название Кизкалеси город получил при турках. Корикос был крупным портом и неоднократно упоминался римскими авторами. Входил в состав Римской, Византийской империй, империи Селевкидов, Амянской Киликии. По поводу крепостей археологи и ученые спорят: построили их в промежуток с 9 по 12 век. То ли при византийцах, то ли при армянах. Крепости были соединены дамбой.

На терииторию крепости на берегу не пускают по причине ее разваливающегося состояния. К крепости на острове плавает лодка. Каждые 15 минут или по мере заполнения. Через дорогу есть гигантский некрополь, но там в принципе никто не проводил раскопок и не облагораживал, потому лезть туда можно на свой страх и риск.

Фактически руины Корикоса тянутся повсеместно вдоль узкой дороги, уводящей к ущелью Шайтан реки. Места, где находятся те самые Люди в Скалах. Барельефы явно античного вида, о происхождении которых нет никаких данных, только теории. Производить там раскопки затруднительно в силу рельефа.

Чтобы увидеть барельефы, нужно доехать до коричневого указателя Adam Kalayar, а потом идти ножками. Практически сразу придется спускаться по скале, цепляясь за остатки ступеней руками и ногами. Виды открываются сногсшибательные, но тут бы не угробиться. Особенно, если лезешь с шестилетним ребенком.

Спуск длится всего 30-50 метров, но людям физически неподготовленныи и плохо переносящим жару лучше не соваться. Это второе место на земле, где мне реально стало жарко (первое – Долина Царей в Египте).

Барельефы изображают людей, стоящих и лежащих (в том числе двух мужиков с винными чашами). И одного из них я поинтересовалась “на хрена”. Ну серьзно, зачем было высекать такие сложные формы в таком неудобном месте? Дойдя до барельефов, стоит поорать, я нигде не слышала такого эха.

Подъем наверх еще более тяжелый. Ни одного живого человека, конечно, встречено не было.

Наверху – сплошные руины, там легко можно провести весть день. Судя по всему, это древний Корикос, но это не точно, там никто не копал. Можно взять совочек, ведерко и вперед, но за это в Турции делают атата.

Вторым пунктом программы были пещеры Рай и Ад, причем Ад в этот день был закрыт. Считается, что в Раю (который тогда, конечно, назывался по-другому, находился вход в царство Аида и здесь же жил змей Тифон). А в соседнюю пещеру, сиречь Тартар, Зевс его выбросил. Зачем в принципе было трогать реликтовое животное – непонятно. Святилище этого самого Зевса (не в лучшем состоянии) находится наверху ущелья.

Обе пещеры – это здоровенные карстовые провалы. Есть мнение, что один из них описан Страбоном, как пещера Корикоса, где растет самый лучший шафран.

В Рай нужно спускаться по лестнице, широкой и удобной, но состоящей почти из 400 ступенек. Но это пока спуск идет по ущелью. После часовни 5 века, посвященной Деве Марии, начинается грязь и сракопад.

В окрестностях какое-то кошмарное количество достопримечательностей. Едва ли не в каждой деревне что-то разваливается, причем никто это не копал, а у некоторых мест даже нет названий. Пещера Желания или Астматическая, безымянный огромный город в деревушке Паслы, развалины Корасиума, пещера святой Феклы, ученицы Павла, крепость Софта, Мезгит Калеси (Крепость Мезгит) или крепость Бесстрашного короля – все это пришлось оставить до следующего раза.

Решено было уделить время хорошо сохранившимся развалкам (тм), к которым не нужно было карабкаться. Город с неблагозвучным названием Узунджабурч ранее красиво назывался Деокесарея и относился к королевству Олба. В отличие от многих других мест ила Мерсин, тут для разнообразия провели раскопки и привели все в порядок, а для туристов расставили таблички. Сохранились: центральная дорога с колоннадой, Храм Богини Судьбы Тихе, театр, спортивный салон, чешме-нимфей, монументальные ворота, северные городские ворота. Находятся руины прямо в поселке и кое-где перемежаются домами. Местные жители не замечены, из туристов – два человека. В нескольких километрах уныло разваливается Олба, которая одно время была самостоятельным царством, но затем попала под власть Рима.

В соседнем с Кизкалеси поселком разваливается Элеусса Себаста. Такое близкое соседство с Корикосом обусловлено тем, что ко времени расцвета Корикоса Элеусса уже захирела. Город был основан в качестве резиденции каппадокийским царем Архелаем около 1 века до н.э. Руины тоже огромные, но некоторые дети после такого насыщенного дня взмолились и завыли.

В 20 км. от Кизкалеси находится еще один древний, но живой город – это одна из Селевкий (Исаврийская), основанная Селевком Никатором, диадохом Александра Македонского. Скромный турецкий гордок ранее был объектом кровожадных столкновений, а в реке около города утонул Фридрих Барбаросса по дороге в очередной крестовый поход. На холме над городом есть крепость, но туда мы уже не полезли.

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