Динан: уютное средневековье

Давным-давно, когда Бретань ещё была независимой, город Динан представлял собой лакомый кусочек, а бретонские герцоги с французскими королями никак не могли поделить город между собой.

Все дело в том, что он лежал на пути к Сен-Мало, бывшему тогда крупнейшим морским портом. В наши дни Динан маленький городок, всего на 11 тысяч жителей, но у него есть жирный козырь.


Многие бретонские и нормандские города практически были стерты с лица земли во время наступления союзников, но Динан эта чаша миновала, и он сохранил свой средневековый облик.


Сохранились толстенные стены 13 века, по которым можно гулять, и башни, с которых можно обозревать окрестности, средневековый порт, небольшой и уютный. Акведук, видимый из порта, – современный, но вписывается в окружающий пейзаж очень органично.


В Динан мы приехали из Сен-Мишеля, уставшие и растопыренные, никаких сил метаться между достопримечательностями не было.
Припарковались и отправились на самую старую и живописную улицу города, Жерзуаль. Из верхнего города она ведёт к порту под крутым углом.

Улица застроена каменными и фахверковыми домиками, с цветочками на окнах, сущее мимими. Самый старый домик на улице – 15го века.


Собственно, эту улица, порт, площадь, на которую выходит Жерзуаль, несколько старых и улиц и церквей – это и все.
В Бретани многие объекты связаны с именем Анны Бретонской, хотя наверняка во всех этих домах и башнях она не была. Последняя герцогиня независимой Бретани, она была вынуждена выйти замуж за двух французских королей по очереди, которые успешно подгребали герцогство под себя.

Но Анна всю жизнь боролась за автономию. И её дочери носили титул последними, хотя Бретань к тому времени уже практически полностью была подчинена Франции. История её типична для тётки того времени, будь она королева или прачка: постоянные беременности, выкидыши, роды, множество умерших во младенчестве детей. И смерть в 36 лет от истощения организма. Её старшая дочь умерла от того же в 25.

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