Небольшой городишко Шартр в средние века стоял на Пути Иакова, ведущего в Сантьяго-Ди-Компостела, так что паломников через него проходило множество.
Видимо, его нахождение на Пути и послужило причиной того, что городу удалось разжиться частью покрова Девы Марии. Для покрова был отгрохан собор, который в XIII веке благополучно сгорел, но не весь.
Остались башни и некоторые порталы, но самое удивительное – с покровом тоже ничего не случилось. Это было сочтено чудом. Но настоящим чудом было то, как быстро и ловко со всей Франции сшибли деньгу и людей на строительство нового. Роскошный собор был построен всего за 30 лет – для средневековья скорость неслыханная.
С собором Шартра правило “видел один – видел все” тоже не работает. Он огромный, и в нем прекрасно сохранилось 2000 кв. м. витражей, с XIII века. Войны, к счастью, обошли город стороной. Одна из наиболее крутых вещей в соборе – так называемая “каменная библия”, поражающая тонкой резьбой в самую пятку. Находится она вокруг алтаря.
Знаменитый лабиринт, обозначавший путь Христа на Голгофу или путь души к спасению, теперь все время заставлен стульями. Так что проползти его на коленях не выйдет. В качестве альтернативы можно использовать разве что лабиринт в саду музея рядом.
С гостиницами в Шартре не очень хорошо, поэтому мы поселились на местной окружной, но при этом отель был битком.
Впрочем, в городе туристов очень мало, и все они в основном толкуться в соборе. Кроме собора, в Шартре можно посмотреть старинные кварталы вдоль реки Эр. Домики стоят прямо над рекой и построены таким образом, чтобы можно было к ним швартовать лодку. Такое себе мини-Брюгге только без сраных лебедей.
Стоит зайти в церковь Сен-Пьер, она огромная, и витражи в ней тоже сохранились. Но ее вид ночью, во время светового шоу, когда она светится изнутри, как волшебная лампа – не идет ни в какое сравнение.
Вокруг собора – несколько старинных улиц. В самом интересном доме – доме Лосося (тут был рыбный рынок) расположился туристический офис.
Чтобы привлечь туристов, в Шартре придумали гениальный ход – то самое световое шоу. По всему старому городу установлены проекторы, которые транслируют изображения на дома, мосты и церкви. Некоторые из них статичны, некоторые меняются, некоторые двигаются. Но подсветка собора, конечно, круче всех, потому ее лучше оставить на закуску.
Картинки на соборе не просто сменяют друг друга, разыгрываются целые сцены под атмосферную музыку. Собор то становится звездным небом, то призраком собора (с), то его строят маленькие человечки, то по одной из башен взмывает ангел. Боковые порталы тоже подсвечиваются – например, на одном из них картинка сделана так, чтобы фигурки святых и королей просто выглядели раскрашенными. Возможно, стоило так строить с самого начала.
Посмотреть Шартр можно и за полдня, но стоит остаться из-за шоу, которое идет с 21-00 до 1 часу ночи каждый день с апреля по октябрь.
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